What to do with roses in spring. How to care for roses in spring, pruning, processing

Roses are rather capricious plants. That is why you need to be very careful grow such a culture. Seedlings should be cared for immediately after the winter months. Spring care includes competent and timely activities:

• Opening shrubs after frost;
• Pruning plants from dried branches;
• Timely fertilization of shrubs;
• Soil mulching;
• Treatment from pests and various diseases;
• Installation of props and special structures for ornamental crops.

Monthly work schedule

How and when to open the bushes after winter

Care for roses should begin after winter with the removal of covering material. Experienced gardeners remove the material after the temperature regime is established and the snow has completely melted. Compliance with this condition will prevent damage to the shoots by frost or damping.

It is necessary to gradually remove the covering material from the rose bushes. You should start with daily airing. It is optimal to ventilate the plants for several hours.

Then remove the shelter completely, provided that the soil has warmed up by about a shovel bayonet.

During the first week, as soon as the covering material has been removed, the bushes should be shaded using agrofiber or special films.

The next stage includes the drying of the soil, it is performed:

• neat unwinding of rose bushes;
• not deep loosening of the earth around the bush. This will help the air to better enter the root system of the plant;
• installation of supports and fastening of plant shoots using trellis structures.

Caring for old bushes

Mature plants after winter should be carefully examined. All old plants should be thoroughly cleaned of dry branches that have been affected by pests and diseases. Often the shoots can be weakened and frostbite, so all branches must be cut below the part that is affected.

After the winter period, the shoots should be green. The most common dangers at the base of the plant are:

• Mold;
• Frostbions - longitudinal ruptures of the bark;
• Infectious burns.

In the spring, roses can have frozen, diseased, and broken branches. All frozen shoots should be cut until the middle of the stem turns white. All moldy areas are removed.

After all the affected branches are eliminated, the bush must be sprinkled with ash.

Important! The main thing is not to rush to pruning shoots with white bloom, which are located at the base of the bush. Such a coating under the action of sunlight within two weeks will disappear in the sun on its own.

Be sure to remove all shoots that grow below the vaccination level. This helps to prevent the gradual wilding of ornamental crops.

Soil mulching is especially effective after the root system of the bushes has been fertilized. The event allows you to save soil moisture, improve air exchange and slow down the growth of weeds.

Mulching allows loosening less often, which is very important in the autumn period. Mulching is done with tree bark and compost.

Features of pruning roses in spring

Competent care should include a quality plant pruning process:

• In mid-April, all branches broken and affected in winter should be removed;
• Trim shoots to the level of living buds. Form a symmetrical bush;
• Since many varieties of hybrid tea roses can bloom on this year's growths, therefore, all old branches should be cut;
• In order to achieve abundant flowering, you should use the technique of combined pruning. In the first year, cut off 3-5 buds, and the next year - by a third;
• Branches of floribunda varieties that are more than 3 years old must be cut off completely;
• If we are talking about pruning large-flowered climbing roses that bloom on last year's growth, then only branches that are older than 5 years should be removed;
• Pruning of the rambler is done immediately, as the flowering period passes. pruning carried out by the method "on the ring". All weak and old branches are removed;
• When forming a shrab, young shoots should be cut off by a third of the length, and all branches thickening the bush should be cut off;
• For standard varieties of roses, it is enough to make a light pruning and remove all frozen shoots.

Many early-flowering varieties of roses, such as greenhouse and English, require pruning as early as April, when buds have not begun to open. Hybrid tea, climbing and ground cover varieties should be cut in May, immediately after blooming.

Pruning is done with a sharp, clean and disinfected garden tool.

Important! The cut should be made above the kidney, which is facing outward, at a distance of about one centimeter. Cutting angle 45°. After pruning, all places where cuts were made must be treated with garden pitch to prevent infection.

Watch the video! Pruning roses in spring

Plant care after planting

After the roses are planted, you need to provide the plants with regular watering.

Water the bushes in the morning or evening. The jet during watering should be directed under the root of the plant. It is impossible to allow blurring of the root system.

Daily watering of the plant is necessary in order for the seedlings to fully root. After that, watering should be moderate, but regular.

If the rose was planted in the spring, then pruning should be done earlier. When it comes to autumn landing, then after planting, pruning is not necessary. The formation of the bush should be postponed until spring.

All buds that were formed in the first summer are removed - this will lead to the strengthening and proper development of shrubs.

Proper spring spraying

In the spring, after the covering material is removed, a revision of the plants is carried out. All shrubs should be carefully inspected and identify places affected by pests or diseases. Special chemicals are especially effective. It is recommended to use a solution of copper sulphate for spring treatment. The concentration of the drug should be 1% or 3%. It is necessary to spray both plants and the aerial part of shrubs, but also the soil around.

To prevent the disease of ornamental crops by various pests, it is necessary to use the following preparations:

• "Fitoverm";
• "Karbofos";
• "Insecticide".

Subsequent treatments should be carried out with a soap solution or a solution based on nettle or iron sulfate. It is also recommended to add a little hot pepper to the soap or nettle solution.

Spring subcortex and watering roses

After the spring pruning is completed, you need to start fertilizing the plants with nitrogen-based substances.

The most popular drugs:

• "Aquarin";
• "Kemira-universal";
• Aquamix.

Advice! The absorption of liquid fertilizers is better. They need to be diluted at the rate of 3-4 liters of solution per rose bush. At the time of feeding with dry fertilizers, it is necessary to monitor their consumption. It is optimal if there are 35-40 grams of the substance per 1 square meter per square meter. m.

Good growth on plants is provided by the joint application of organic and mineral fertilizers. As organic matter, rotted manure, bird droppings, humus can be used.

At the moment when the bushes are at the stage of formation of young branches, solutions based on herbal infusions or manure should be applied. After fertilization, shrubs should be watered abundantly so that beneficial minerals can better penetrate the root system of the crop.

Watch the video! Very effective fertilizer for roses

Mulching roses in spring

After fertilizing, the plants must be mulched. This process is an important component of rose care technology in spring. It helps plants develop and resist many diseases.

Advantages of the mulching process

• Allows you to retain moisture in the soil;
• Cools the soil at high temperatures;
• Prevents soil compaction;
• Retains useful minerals in the soil;
• Protects the root system of plants;
• Protects against various diseases and pests;
• Improves the appearance of the bush;
• Prevents the growth of weeds.

Mulching is a simple and uncomplicated process that can be done at any time of the year. However, it is optimal to carry it out twice a year: in early spring and late summer.

Description mulching process:

• The soil next to the bushes should be well weeded, remove all weeds and shoots;
• Cover the soil with mulch about 4-6 centimeters. It is important that the base of the plant stem is not covered with mulch;
• After the mulch layer becomes humus, it must be mixed with the top layer of soil;
• The next layer of mulch is laid on top, the procedure is repeated.

Agrofibre (Agrospan) for mulching is sold in stores or can be made at home using pieces of cardboard, sawdust, dry grass, wood chips or hay.

One of the best resources is compost. It can be made from various ingredients, such as coffee grounds or food waste. If using fruit or vegetable scraps, make sure they do not contain seeds. All materials are mixed and left to rot near the roses.

One of the most versatile remedies is chicken manure or manure. Often they are used for mulching. To create mulch, they must be used in a dry form. The disadvantage of using such organic fertilizers is that there may be seeds of other crops that will germinate and interfere with the development of rose bushes.

Preventive treatment

Culture care should be year-round. Fertilizing shrubs in the summer is just as important as sheltering plants in the fall for the winter. No less important is the pruning of shoots after winter and the treatment of bushes from diseases and pests in the spring. Once the shrubs have been open after winter, roses need maintenance. Seedlings need to be treated to prevent infection with powdery mildew, rust, aphids and spider mites.

To treat infections, use the following solution: You need to take 100 grams of copper sulfate with a concentration of 3% and add it to a bucket of water. Next, spray the bushes and the soil next to the bush.

Conclusion

Rose growing process in open ground requires a lot of strength and patience. It is important to correctly observe each point of agricultural technology, since each stage of care must be performed with high quality. Rose care in spring after winter- one of the main periods when you need to be patient and not harm the bushes.

Beginners who first decide to grow rose plantations on the site should seek advice from experienced gardeners or see photo And video instructions in the article. A true gardener and lover of roses will not regret the time spent in order to grow these beautiful flowers in the country.

Watch the video! Rose care after winter step by step

Rosehips are the most beautiful flowers ever cultivated by man. It is not easy to find a summer cottage where at least a few rose bushes do not grow. Roses are loved by many flower growers. They do not require constant monotonous and scrupulous care. They are quite hardy, resistant to growth conditions, climatic, and others. But there is a list of mandatory activities in the care of roses, without which these flowers cannot be successfully grown. Large-scale care measures twice a year and intermediate ones - during the growing season - rose growers have to carry out. The first treatment of roses in spring is the most important event of the new flower growing season.

Care activities - when and what

Usually they start caring for roses immediately after winter, with the arrival of the first spring warming. When determining the time frame for roses, you need to consider where you live in terms of climate and site location. It is very important to start care before the day when the roses release their first buds and begin to grow.

1. The very first care event of the year is the removal of shelter from rose bushes.
2. This is followed by early spring formative pruning.
3. The third point of the program is the treatment from the first pests.
4. The next mandatory event is mulching.
5. The fifth point is the application of fertilizers.
6. Then there remains the fastening of the supports and the garter to them.

After that, you can take a break and admire the results.

Taking cover

In our region, roses need shelter during the winter (the temperature that rose bushes can tolerate painlessly is -5°C, at lower temperatures they should be covered). Roses are afraid not only of the cold, but also of heat. Especially the first spring, when they are under caps made of covering material, heaps of wet leaves, coniferous branches and other heaters.

As soon as the positive temperature is established in spring, rose bushes are freed from covering material. You should not hesitate and wait for the onset of hot days - a delay can lead to the decay of rose bushes, after which they cannot be restored.

First pruning of roses

Roses are globally pruned twice - in spring and autumn. During the growing season, sanitary pruning is possible, but this is desirable. Spring and autumn pruning is mandatory. Spring pruning is "more important" than autumn pruning, especially in areas with cold winters. If the main pruning is carried out at the beginning of the season, rose bushes have a chance to successfully winter.

Cut roses in the spring as follows.

1. First, dried and broken branches are removed.
2. Then the bush is inspected, and two main central shoots are selected, on which there are healthy buds.
3. They are shortened to the kidney of your choice (two centimeters higher).
4. Then the branches growing deep into the bush, “fatting” stems, are removed.

The purpose of pruning is to form a bush of the correct shape with an open center.

How much to shorten the main branches of the bush depends on the local climate (the cold climate does not allow roses to grow quickly), on the plant variety and the place where it is planted.

Norms of spring pruning of roses

Variety	Pruning in a cool climate, cm	Pruning in hot climates, cm
garden roses	up to 30	To 10
high grades	Up to 70	Up to 50
Tea shrubs	Up to 100	Up to 80
Climbing and standard	Remove diseased and extra branches	The crown is forming

Treatment of roses against pests

The treatment of roses from pathogens and pest larvae begins in early spring. The timing also depends on the climatic region (in a warm climate zone, processing is carried out in winter). It is important to process the plants before the start of the growing season, until the buds have started to grow.

Important! Processing is carried out in compliance with the norms and safety regulations when working with toxic chemicals. The weather should be calm and not rainy.

Roses are very easily affected by fungal diseases, more often than other plants are attacked by pests. After early spraying, two weeks later, when the green leaf mass begins to grow, it is necessary to re-treat. This time it is good to use a universal preparation that includes a fungicide and an insecticide. This way you can prevent the inevitable appearance of aphids, the defeat of roses by powdery mildew, the attack of rust.

Important! In no case should you use insecticides and other chemicals on those bushes from which you intend to remove flowers for cosmetic or culinary purposes (preparation of rose water, petal jam).

If you do not want to use chemicals, treat roses with homemade safe products. An effective remedy would be a solution of laundry soap, a solution of ash, a decoction of onion peel, an infusion of garlic. A glass of onion peel is boiled in a glass of water, infused for a day, diluted with water 1:10. They are watered over the leaves or plants are generously sprayed.

An infusion based on orange or tangerine peel (dried or fresh) is used to prevent spider mites. It is prepared similarly to the infusion of onion peel. An arbitrary number of crusts (the more, the better) is poured with boiling water. The resulting "compote" is insisted for half a day and filtered. Then dilute and apply. This tool can become a truly effective pest control.

Supports and garter

Many make or purchase various decorative supports for spray roses. Branches are tied to them or fixed with wire clips. When the kidneys begin to grow, it is necessary to check the condition of the old supports, and if they fail, install new ones. Cut and processed bushes are fixed on supports. This is best done with soft garden wire.

Spring fertilizer roses

There are many nutritional complexes designed specifically for roses. They can even be differentiated by varieties of roses. The main thing in top dressing for roses is the presence of all the substances necessary for plants - from nitrogen to magnesium.

There are long-acting fertilizers - it is enough to feed the plants with them twice a year - in spring and in the middle of summer, after the first mass flowering.

Important! Feeding roses in the fall, especially in areas with a cold climate, is a big mistake. The bushes will not have time to prepare for the dormant period and will not tolerate the winter well.

It is desirable to add organic matter to any fertilizers. Roses are very fond of rotted manure, chicken droppings. From such a fertilizer, they really "bloom".

Video - Spring dressing of roses

Many gardeners traditionally add organic matter to roses in anticipation of winter. Where did this tradition come from? From rural life, when it was not necessary to go far for fertilizer - the cowshed is nearby. The barn needs to be cleaned before winter, otherwise it will not be possible to get through there until next spring. And manure with grass bedding is most convenient directly on the ridges, flower beds, spread out under the trees. Good for the ridges. When the harvest is harvested and autumn digging is ahead, the introduction of organic matter is a good and timely thing. As for rose bushes, fruit trees, berry bushes and other perennial flowers, everything is different here.

Fresh manure with grass, manure with straw bedding and even humus, as soon as it is introduced into the soil, begins to actively feed the plant with all sorts of useful elements. The plant, which was about to go into hibernation, has to wake up and begin to work actively, consuming the nutrients received. As a result, sap flow not only does not stop, but, on the contrary, intensifies. And here it is cold. How will your roses survive the winter? It's easy to guess.

Therefore, it is possible to make well-rotted manure under roses only in the spring. It is enough to add a scoop of organic matter to the bush, and then mulch with natural material.

Mulching

This is a very important procedure for roses. It ensures the preservation of nutrients and moisture in the soil, regulates the thermal regime, protects the roots from damage and performs a decorative function. Therefore, after top dressing, the bushes must be mulched. It is best to carefully spread compost around the trunks (one bucket per bush) and sprinkle on top with decorative material - wood chips, bark, gravel. The base of the bush does not need to fall asleep.

Spring pruning and processing of the rose garden is not a one-day activity, especially if there are a lot of rose bushes on the site. Therefore, it is advisable to divide the work into several stages. It is important not to miss a single stage and not to miss time. Pruning, for example, must be carried out before growth begins, the first processing, too. If everything is done correctly and most importantly, in a timely manner, rose bushes will be lush, healthy, and flowering will be long and plentiful.

Growing roses is a troublesome but enjoyable task. Proper care of roses in the spring in the country is a guarantee that rose bushes will develop perfectly and delight summer residents with the charm of lush flowers and exquisite aroma.

Perhaps you will not find a person who is indifferent to roses. And every self-respecting summer resident will definitely find a place for a couple of bushes of the queen of flowers, or even a whole rose garden. But just planting is not enough. It is necessary to ensure timely care for garden roses, from the onset of the first warm weather to the very cold. In winter, the plants are dormant. In the spring, the foundation is laid for the successful development of rose bushes throughout the season. You should consider step by step how to do it right.

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spring activities

The first thing to do with the onset of spring and the beginning of active snow melting is to protect the rose bushes in the garden from excessive moisture, because flooding can be fatal for them. It is necessary to dig small drainage grooves so that the melt water moves away from the bush.

If wintering took place under shelters, it's time to remove them. But this must be done gradually. As soon as all the snow melts and stable heat is established on the street (this is very important so that the shoots do not freeze), you should start airing the sheltered bushes. To do this, it is enough to slightly lift the covering material and leave it in this position for several hours. When the soil thaws by about 15 cm, you can partially open the bushes on the north or east side. And after 2-3 days, choosing windless cloudy dry weather, carry out a full opening of the bushes.

The next task is to protect the plantings from sunburn. Therefore, they need to be shaded for several days with paper, thin agrofiber or spruce branches. Then adaptation to the sun will be painless.

Now it's time to unravel the bushes. By the way, in the southern regions, where rose gardens may well spend the winter without shelters, spring work begins from this stage. In gardening gloves, manually, in order not to damage the young shoots, you should carefully rake the ground. You can also use a stream of warm water. Then loosen the near-stem soil, and lubricate the grafting sites of varietal roses with a 1% solution of copper sulphate.

If young sprouts are not observed on the bushes, this does not mean that the roses have died after the winter. You just need to wait a bit, because the growth may be late.

When breeding climbing varieties on the site, it's time to fix them on supports (trellises).



Troubleshooting

After the roses have been opened and unpacked, they should be carefully examined for freezing, damping off and the presence of infectious diseases.

Frozen twigs will be dry, dark brown. They are definitely removed. It happens that the overwintered bush looks lifeless. But do not rush to throw it away: it can grow from renewal points. So cut the branches and watch the rose bush. Around May, he should come to life. There is an easy way to check if a plant is alive or not: you need to move the bush. If it staggers, the root is dead; if not, it is viable.

It happens that warm weather at the end of autumn provokes sap flow, and the onset of frost causes it to freeze. As a result, cracks may appear on the shoots, from large to insignificant. When sap flow begins again in early spring, cracks become a favorable environment for pathogenic bacteria to penetrate under the bark. If large cracks are found during the inspection, the damaged branches should be cut off, and small frost holes should be disinfected with potassium permanganate or copper sulphate (1% solution). For convenience, you can take a small brush. Then all places of damage should be smeared with garden pitch.

Moldiness can be observed in those plants that have not been subjected to autumn processing. It is necessary to wipe the formed mold and wash the places with iron sulphate or a copper-soap preparation.

The reason for damping out is usually the late removal of shelter. Red-brown spots on the shoots, which gradually darken towards the center, may indicate it. Spotting can spread to the entire branch. Infected shoots are cut to healthy tissue and burned, and the bush is treated with a copper-containing fungicide. This may be copper oxychloride or a similar agent. With complete damage, the bush is not subject to treatment, only uprooting and burning. But shoots with small lesions can be left at least until summer pruning after flowering.



Required trimming

Caring for roses after winter includes pruning them. To carry out the work, you will need a sharp pruner, a garden saw and a garden pitch.

A few important points that I would like to focus on:

• pruning is carried out every spring;
• it must be performed before the buds open;
• you can not leave stumps when removing the entire branch, they are cut into a "ring" - to the very base;
• sections are made at an angle of 45 ° above a healthy external kidney by 5 mm;
• when forming a bush, 5 strong branches are left, all the rest are removed to the "ring";
• pruner should be disinfected after each bush.

Pruning roses is sanitary and formative. Sanitary pruning is performed first, it consists in removing old (more than 4 years old) and damaged branches, as well as shoots growing inside the bush. Slices must be smeared with garden pitch or brilliant green to avoid infection. Attention should be paid to grafted plants: all wild shoots from below the graft are also removed. Then the bushes are lightly spudded and the shoots and the earth around them are treated with copper oxychloride.

The goals of shaping pruning are:

• stimulation of active growth;
• bush formation.

The timing of this stage of caring for roses in the spring in the country for different types may vary. For example, formative pruning of early-flowering varieties is carried out in April before bud break, and hybrid tea, ground cover and climbing varieties - in May after they bloom.



Types of manipulations

Pruning can be weak, medium and strong.

For park and climbing roses, weak pruning is necessary: ​​cut off the top of the shoot, and leave 7-10 buds on the branch. Short shoots will grow from them, which will bloom profusely in June. However, these flowers are not suitable for cutting.

The most common is medium, or moderately short, pruning. 5-7 buds are left on the shoots. Young branches will be longer, however, they will bloom later than with weak pruning.

With heavy pruning, flowering will begin a month later. Only 2-3 buds are left on the shoots, from which powerful shoots will grow. You should not shorten climbing varieties in this way, they may not bloom at all. But old bushes with strong pruning can be completely rejuvenated.

Tips on how to prune different types of roses in spring:

1. 1. Shrubs, climbing and parka need light pruning. In multiply flowering climbing varieties, the main (long) shoots are not touched, but the lateral ones are shortened, and then only a little. And once flowering varieties are generally not pruned in spring.
2. 2. Types of floribunda, hybrid tea and polyanthus are formed using medium and strong pruning.
3. 3. Standard varieties are subjected to thinning and weak pruning, and ground cover varieties are subjected to sanitary and rejuvenating pruning.
4. 4. Miniature plants are carefully thinned out and the shoots are shortened by 2 times.
5. 5. When pruning remontant species, 6-7 buds are left on the branches. This will allow the plant to bloom wildly this year and give a good increase in shoots for the next year.

Plant nutrition

How to care for roses after pruning? When the first leaves appear, the plant begins to intensively consume nutrients from the soil. Therefore, you need to carry out the first top dressing. How to do it right? Start by watering the ground around the bushes generously with warm water. Then, in a circle, at a distance of about 15 cm from the trunk, apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. It can be spring Kemira or ammonium nitrate. The norms are prescribed in the instructions for use, and they cannot be overestimated. Roses - this is the case when the lack of nutrition is better than its excess. Then loosen the earth and again pour warm water. Remember this sequence: water - apply dry fertilizer - water again. You can pre-dissolve mineral fertilizers in water, and then apply in liquid form.

After a week, you need to fertilize with organic matter. Under each plant we pour out 0.5 manure of a bucket of humus (it must be very rotted) and slightly deepen it into the ground. Then we water.

If it rains after the application of mineral fertilizers, the bulk of the fertilizers from the soil can be washed out with water, after 2 weeks, fertilizing with nitrogen should be repeated.

Like pink flowers and foliar top dressing with calcium nitrate. You should spray not only the bushes, but also the soil under them. The procedure is carried out when dry, warm weather sets in in the evening.

Rose bushes are fed 2 times a year - in spring and summer (before the second wave of flowering). If young plants are less than 2 years old, they do not need fertilizer. The nutrient soil in which they were planted will provide them with the necessary elements for active growth.

After pruning and top dressing, rose bushes are mulched. This is necessary to retain moisture and create an optimal microclimate in the soil. For mulching, you can use rotted sawdust, hay, peat, humus or pebbles. The mulch should cover the ground in an even layer (4-6 cm), but not cover the trunk.

Protection against diseases and pests

In order to prevent diseases and protect against insect pests, roses are treated in the spring with special means - insecticides and fungicides. The first time spraying is done 3-4 days after pruning.

Solutions of kerosene (1 tsp per 10 liters of water) and 3% copper sulphate are well protected from diseases. To prevent fungal diseases, roses in the spring can be treated with Fitosporin or a solution of wood ash.

RoseClear has proven itself to be a universally powerful drug. When using it, you can immediately solve 2 tasks: to protect both from pests and from diseases. The frequency of processing bushes in the garden is every 2 weeks. The preparation of the working solution must be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

For spraying, a calm day is chosen, and evening is better. Do not forget about safety measures: before starting work, put on a respirator mask and gloves.

If rose petals are planned to be collected for making jam and for other food purposes, it is impossible to treat plants with pesticides. In this case, it is better to turn to folk remedies: use a solution of laundry soap (200 g of soap per 10 liters of water), infusions of nettle and tansy.



Flower care ends with timely watering. Let it be not frequent, but plentiful.

Spring care for roses in a summer cottage can seem time-consuming and burdensome. But when the roses bloom in all their glory, all difficulties will be forgotten. Only admiration and satisfaction from the work done will remain.

Winter is over and warm days are here. It's time to "wake up" the queen of the garden - the rose. Spring care for roses is a troublesome process, but by doing everything right and in a timely manner, you will lay the foundation for their successful development for the whole season.

Spring work in the garden begins with the removal of protective cover at the end of winter. It's important to get the timing right. It is necessary not to freeze the shoots, but also to prevent the rose bush from getting warm.

We start with ventilation: for a couple of hours during the day we raise the shelter for air circulation. Further, when the earth thaws slightly, the bush is opened on one side (preferably from the north or east), and after another two or three days, the shelter is completely removed.

The overwintered bush should adapt to the spring sun and not get burned. The first days it should be shaded with thin material or spruce branches.

When the earth has dried up, they begin to unravel the roses. Do this carefully so as not to break the young sprouts. In grafted standard bushes, it is important to carefully lubricate the grafting site with a 1% solution with a brush or a small cloth.

Spring problems of roses and their solution

Having opened the bushes, you should carefully examine them. They can be frozen, weathered or with infectious diseases.

If the branches are dark brown and dry, then they are frozen and must be removed. If all the shoots are frozen, do not rush to throw out the bush. The root may turn out to be alive, sprouts from renewal buds may go.

Warm days in late autumn provoke sap flow, and during frosts, the juice freezes and causes cracks - from inconspicuous to large (about 15 cm). In the spring, sap flow exacerbates the problem, pathogenic bacteria develop in the cracks. It is better to remove large frost holes, and treat minor ones with copper sulphate or a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then close the wound with garden pitch.

When opening rose bushes, you can find mold. This happens in the absence of autumn processing. Erase the fungus, and then wash the infection sites with iron sulphate or a copper-soap preparation.

If the shelter was removed late, there is a risk of damping off or infectious burn (stem cancer). Red-brown spots appear, which darken in the center. Such branches are cut to healthy tissue. The plant is treated, for example, with copper chloride. When one or two branches are affected by an infectious burn, and the spots are small, not girdle, such shoots can be left and let the bush bloom until summer pruning.

First spring pruning and processing

Continuing the spring care activities, we proceed to the sanitary pruning of the bushes. General rules:

• It is necessary to carry out every spring before the start of bud break.
• Be sure to use a sharp pruner.
• Cutting off the branches completely, you can not leave stumps, they are removed to the very base - on the "ring".
• The branches are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, stepping back from a healthy outer kidney about 5 mm. It is necessary to choose the one that grows outward so that there is no thickening.
• Forming a bush, about 5 healthy, old branches are left, the rest are removed to the "ring".

Sanitary pruning of roses in the future is the same as for other shrubs:

1. All dry and damaged branches are cut out to healthy wood, as well as those growing inside the bush.
2. Old branches (more than 4 years old) are removed.
3. We must cover the places where large branches are cut with garden pitch or brilliant green to avoid infection.
4. The secateurs must be disinfected after each bush.
5. Wild shoots that appear below the grafting site are removed.
6. Hilling bushes.

Successful planting of roses in the spring and care measures are the key to the future healthy beauty of your rose garden. And when queen roses bloom in all their splendor, no one remains indifferent. All the difficulties and worries about them suddenly seem so insignificant. And everything about caring for roses in the autumn is written.

Tags: Flowers, Floristics, Garden flowers

Choosing a rose for planting in the country

Many gardeners grow roses in their summer cottages: they are magnificent, emit a divine aroma, delight the eye and improve mood. Rose is a sorceress and queen of the garden.

In order for the rose bush to become a real beauty over time, it is necessary to choose the right planting material.

It is better to choose well-developed seedlings at the age of 2 years, it is not necessary to chase those that have a lot of above-ground branches. The main thing is that the shoots are mature, even if there are even one or two of them - this will be quite enough for the growth and development of the plant. When buying seedlings, you need to ask the seller about what kind of rose it is, what is its age, whether it is grafted or rooted.

Planting a rose in the country

When thinking about planting roses in the country, it should be remembered that this amazing flower cannot live without the sun, so the choice of location must be approached responsibly. Without gentle sunlight, a rose will not delight its owners with magnificent bright flowering.

Sitting in a shaded place, it can and will bloom, but very weakly and only inconspicuous flowers.

There is one more unfavorable moment - in the shade, an unpleasant disease overcomes the rose - powdery mildew.

Planting hole for roses

To plant a seedling, it is necessary to dig a hole and fill it with a prepared soil mixture, which is characterized by moderate acidity and structure. It consists of the following components:

• 1 part manure - certainly well-rotted;
• 0.5 parts of sand;
• 2 pieces of land from your garden;
• trace elements and potassium nitrate - their amount must comply with the instructions for fertilizers.

Plants should be buried in the soil by 10-15 centimeters if the planting material is grafted seedlings. Such a depth will not allow the development of rose hips. And rooted seedlings are planted deeper by about 5 centimeters than the depth at which they grew in the nursery. Before planting, it is necessary to prune the above-ground shoots: what length to leave depends on the rose variety:

• hybrid tea roses - no more than 3 buds remain;
• remontant varieties - you can leave 5 buds;
• park roses - some of the shoots must be cut to about a third of the length, and some even shorter.

Pruning is necessary so that the plant takes root better in a new place and develops well.

In the prepared pit, a mound 50X60 centimeters in size is formed, the roots are carefully straightened at the seedling and placed on this mound, covered with earth from above.

How to water a rose

For watering a garden beauty, you should not use cold water: you should first heat it in the sun, for which you can install any containers on the site and periodically fill them with water - it will heat up on warm days and can be used for watering throughout the summer season.

Water the rose abundantly, at least once a week, and even more often in the heat.

Do I need to mulch a rose

Yes, rose mulching is desirable. As a mulching material, you can use dry grass, rotted sawdust or manure, needles and even thick paper. The plant should be covered with 5-10 centimeters of mulch. Mulching prevents the soil from drying out or overheating, the soil does not compact, which means that regular loosening is not required, and the bush has to be watered less often. If during the summer you carry out mulching several times, then this is beneficial for the rose - it develops better and gives more beautiful flowering.

What and how to feed a rose

1. Spring. At this time, nitrogen fertilizer must be applied to the soil under the plant. It can be urea or ammonium nitrate.
2. Summer.

   In summer, it is very important for a rose to form new shoots and bloom beautifully, so it needs a full range of micronutrient nutrition and organic fertilizer (usually manure).

3. Autumn. In autumn, all plants prepare for a long winter, the rose is no exception. During this period, she needs phosphorus, which will help accumulate plastic substances, prepare shoots for winter.

When the formation of buds begins, the plant is once again fed with mullein infusion with the addition of potassium sulfate - it should be taken no more than a matchbox per bucket of infusion. The bud will begin to bloom much more slowly and bloom for a longer time, and the flowering will be of extraordinary brightness.

rose pruning

When to prune a rose

Beginning gardeners often think that pruning should be done in the fall, but don't be in a hurry. Experienced people who have been growing roses for more than one year recommend not touching the plant in the autumn months, because the leaves feed the bush until they die completely. But in the spring you should definitely do pruning.

How to prune a rose

For varieties that are characterized by strong growth, when pruning, it is necessary to leave no more than 3 eyes, for medium-growing ones - up to 5 eyes, and roses that grow more weakly are cut more. At the time of pruning, it is necessary to get rid of all broken branches or too weak ones.

Climbing roses also need pruning. Those varieties that bloom on shoots formed this year should be pruned in such a way as to stimulate the formation of new shoots. Last year's branches can be cut by a third, and older ones - up to 5 buds, no more than 3 buds remain on the side shoots. And those varieties that bloom on last year's shoots are not pruned, as there will be no flowering.

rose care

How to spray a rose from aphids

Garden stores sell a lot of remedies for this scourge: Aktan, Confidor and others. The instruction must be printed on the package, in accordance with it, the bushes must be sprayed.

Folk remedies also give positive results: infusions of onion peel, garlic, tomato tops, hot peppers.

Dealing with powdery mildew on roses

Against powdery roses, you can also use purchased funds: "Topaz", "Fundazol", "Thiovit". The industry does not stand still, offering something new every year.

How to cover a rose for the winter

If roses grow in a garden plot in an area where the climate is warm, then they do not need any shelter - the plant can withstand up to -25 degrees. And where the climate is more severe, they should be covered, but this should be done only when persistent cold has set in.

The bushes are sprinkled with earth, sawdust mixed with grass, spruce branches, cellophane, roofing material. But during the thaw, such a shelter must be slightly opened so that the roses can breathe.

Tags: Flowers, Floristics, Garden flowers

Rose care in early spring - video

More on the topic GARDEN AND GARDEN in the spring - tips and secrets.

Short description: For a successful wintering, rose bushes need to be covered, but with the advent of spring it is very important to open them correctly. How to carry out such work will tell in detail the presented video. The term of disclosure depends on the landscape and natural conditions of the Higher area.

Basic rules and features of caring for roses in spring

If the bushes were covered with roofing material or a film that does not transmit light, immediately after the snow falls, open the ends of the shelter for ventilation. Free the rose from the cover as soon as possible to prevent the bushes from drying out. With modern covering materials, everything is much simpler; they let in both light and heat. This video will tell you how to carry out the initial pruning and avoid mold on the branches.

Source: YouTube.

Added: 2015-01-16

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Spring for roses is a period when caring for them must be mandatory. It depends on how well you take care of your wards at the start of the season, whether they will please you with abundant flowering or cause a lot of problems. In today's publication, we will look at what the care of roses in spring is and what work needs to be started immediately.

From the article you will learn:

• Removing winter shelters
• Rules for spring pruning roses
  • Sanitary and thinning pruning
  • Formative pruning
• Spring dressing of roses
  • Useful video: caring for roses in spring

Removing winter shelters

No matter how complex and layered the cover of your roses was in winter, it must be removed, in any case, gradually. In April, as soon as the sun really shines like spring, start removing the cover from the north side of the roses. It is advisable to do this at first only for a day. This is due to the fact that during this period the roses may begin to rot under the winter shelter, but they may also freeze slightly during night frosts.

If roses grow in the country, and you cannot go to them twice a day to open and cover, it is better to open them from the north side than to leave them completely under winter shelter. The chances that roses will fade in April are much greater than that they will freeze. Of course, it all depends on the weather, because April can also be snowy and frosty.

Within a few days, you can gradually remove part of the shelter from the roses, for example, non-woven material, and leave the needles or branches with which the flower shoots were covered in winter. If you also covered the roses with dry foliage, pick it up in a couple of days. It is important that the roses gradually get used to the new weather conditions. After a few more days, you can remove the shelter near the basal neck.

All other spring procedures, which will be discussed below, should be started about a week after the winter shelter has been removed from the basal neck of the rose. But if the kidneys swelled earlier, then we should hurry.

Rules for spring pruning roses

Providing proper care for roses in the spring, pruning is indispensable. At the same time, almost all varieties of roses, without exception, need to be cut to one degree or another. Another thing is that the type of pruning that needs to be done depends on the type of rose.

Sanitary and thinning pruning

Sanitary and thinning pruning of roses should be carried out before the buds have blossomed on the flowers. And it's better to do it a little earlier than later. When examining roses after winter, pay special attention to those planted last spring.

All frostbitten, dry, diseased and damaged branches must be cut to healthy tissue. The cut is made slightly below the injury site. Be sure to completely cut out wild shoots that appear below the grafting point. This is the prevention of the "wildness" of roses. Branches that are more than four years old should be cut off immediately at the root. It is also worth doing with shoots that grow inside the bush. Wounds from large cuts - are treated with garden pitch or special means.

Formative pruning

Unlike sanitary and thinning pruning, shaping pruning is not mandatory for all types of roses. For hybrid tea, pruning is carried out in the spring, shortening the length of the shoots by about a third. But bush and so-called flowerbed roses, blooming once a season, do not form in the spring. At the same time, plants of these groups, which bloom several times per season, are also subject to formation (shoots are cut by a third).

Ground cover roses are rarely pruned in spring. They generally need to be cut no more than once every four years. Such pruning is NOT so much shaping as rejuvenating - shoots are cut “to stumps” 20-30 cm long.

Remontant roses need only thinning pruning. The shoots that form their skeleton are cut off no more than once every three years.

Climbing roses are pruned annually, leaving 3-5 buds on the side shoots. At the same time, shoots older than 5 years are cut to a stump. Thus, anti-aging pruning is carried out. Standard roses are also formed in the spring, cutting the shoots along certain contours. You can read more about pruning roses depending on the variety by clicking on this link.

When pruning roses in the spring, strictly monitor the cleanliness of the tool. Before pruning each plant, the secateurs must be treated with antiseptic preparations. Sections are made higher by about half a centimeter of a well-developed kidney and, which is very important, only at an oblique angle.

If the bush is frostbitten and looks lifeless, do not rush to throw it away. Give him a chance! Perhaps one or two buds survived on the shoots, and with the advent of spring, the bush will come to life and start new shoots.

Spring dressing of roses

The first feeding of roses of the season is best done immediately after the first pruning. Early spring feeding also has its own timing: fertilizer must be applied immediately after the buds swell, and before they bloom.

How to fertilize roses in spring? These flowers respond well to complex fertilizers, and to special mixtures for roses, and to nitrogen fertilizing, for example, ammonium nitrate.

Rose care in spring after winter

Once every two or three years, it would be nice to add organic (humus or compost) to mineral top dressing. You can use these fertilizers as mulch. Mulch (any) is very desirable to put around the roses in the spring, immediately after the spring top dressing. Mulch will protect the roses from excessive moisture and drying out of the soil, you do not have to loosen the ground around the roses with a chopper all summer and fight weeds. For effectiveness, the layer of mulch should be at least 5 cm.

As a rule, fertilizers are applied in two ways: in the form of a liquid or "embedded" in the soil in a solid state. The latter method is less efficient and more labor intensive. Before applying fertilizer to the ground, the rose must be watered very well so as not to burn the roots. After top dressing, the roses are watered again, and also very plentifully.

Summing up, we note that among the mandatory spring work on caring for roses, which should be carried out before the opening of the buds, the following are mandatory:

• Elimination of winter shelter;
• At a minimum, sanitary and thinning pruning, and for some roses also rejuvenating and shaping;
• Spring feed.

later, even closer to the end of May, you need to carry out the following procedures:

• Mulching;
• Preventive spraying against pests.