Connecting a luminaire with fluorescent lamps. How to make a fluorescent lamp with your own hands

Fluorescent Lamp- this is a sealed tube, inside of which there are gas vapors, which, under the influence of an electric discharge (breakdown), go into an excited state and bombard the phosphor layer deposited on the inside of the lamp bulb. This bombardment is what causes the glow. In order to “break through” a gaseous medium with a discharge, which does not conduct electricity well, a primary impulse is needed - a strong initial current. After switching on, it is necessary to maintain a “glow discharge” inside the flask, which will ensure the glow of the phosphor layer even with a short-term power outage. Hence - both the difficulties and the advantages of connecting fluorescent lamps, whose physics is not based on the direct incandescence of a luminous filament.

What burns in a fluorescent lamp?

Actually a lot. A spiral that is a source of excited electrons. The gas, the ionization of which causes the phosphor layer to glow, the gas itself inside the flask (the glow of which we do not see) and the starter, which has a light indication of serviceability.

Let's now see what a fluorescent lamp circuit is:

For a person familiar with the bondage of electrical circuits, everything is obvious. The diode bridge eliminates breakdown on L4 and C1, R1-2 dampen the pulse currents on the EN circuit, and an additional diode allows the capacitor to capture excess currents.

This diagram fully explains how to connect a fluorescent lamp, and by the way, how to save electricity. Please note that by eliminating Z and D7, we will get a significant reduction in inrush current, which will save on electricity!

Unclear? Good. Let's make things a little easier

For domestic purposes, this is enough. But connecting fluorescent lamps has a feature. It is worth bearing in mind that this picture is of connecting one lamp. If we connect several lamps with our own hands, then we need to take into account that a serial connection is simpler, more reliable and more economical in terms of energy costs. This is directly related to the title of this part of the article - what shines. Pulse starter, transmitted in series, makes it easier to start each subsequent lamp. In other words, charge spent on starting the first lamp is passed on, reducing the cost of launching the second one, and so on.

And burns in a lamp phosphor, which, after establishing the necessary conditions in the flask, “smolders” with very little electricity consumption. Hence the energy-saving properties of these lamps, and all derivatives - like compact ones, which, in fact, remained luminescent.

Connection options for fluorescent lamps

Strictly speaking, there are few options for choosing, installing and connecting a fluorescent lamp. These parameters are set by the fluorescent lamp circuit, as well as the layout of the lighting device. Please note - we do not consider characteristics in this article, we are more interested in the question of how to connect a fluorescent lamp correctly. Based on this task, we mean that:

• The load on the wiring should be minimal;
• Operating conditions require just such a lamp (more on that below);
• The network parameters are stable (smooth adjustment with dimmers is not possible, and voltage drops are a constant replacement for burned-out fluorescent lamps);
• The lighting requirements of the room do not allow the use of incandescent lamps, or this is a direct saving on electricity;
• Each lamp is a separate device, equipped with a damping choke, ballast and starter, and it is impossible to use a powerful choke for 10 lamps even on an industrial scale.

It follows from this that each fluorescent lamp that we use in everyday life must exactly take its place. Moreover, unlike others, this is a place that is equipped with:

• Special base (with the exception of energy-saving lamps adapted to screw bases);
• A special "silencer" of light (lampshade). As a rule, frosted glass, which allows you to remove the effect of "flicker";
• Access. When the replacement of fluorescent lamps and device elements (usually starters) is done quickly, without much labor.

The connection process itself should look like this. We take the phase on which we hang the contact of the lamp. We connect the neutral wire to the choke, from which we close the second contact in the lamp. When voltage is applied, the lamp will “blink”, about three to four times per minute. This means that the breakdown current is sufficient.

For a smooth start of the lamp, a starter is needed, it is also a ballast, it is also a key element of the Starting Control Equipment (PRA). Today, electronic ballasts, electronic ballasts are more applicable. The main task of the ballast is to balance the load. In other words, do not allow the throttle to “spit charge”, which leads to flashes, and not a calm burning of the lamp. Look at the diagram again:

The ballast hangs over the lamp contacts, balancing the discharges inside the bulb. The name is not accidental, the starter not only starts a continuous discharge inside the lamp, but also does not allow this discharge to go beyond the scope inside the bulb. There are practically no cases of explosion of fluorescent lamps, but the "black tube" is more the rule than the exception. The same case when the phosphor burned out due to overdischarge. This usually happens when the starter fails after the lamp has ignited.

We connect fluorescent lamps in series, making sure that both the choke and the starter work each on their own lamp. When connecting a ready-made lamp (in which there are many lamps), we will make sure that there are as many starters as there are lamps, otherwise the failure of one starter can turn off the entire lighting device.

We understand that this type of lighting is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes and is safe as a source of fire (except for), therefore, in aquariums other lamps do not use, and there the humidity in the lamp area is almost 100%.

We also remember that LL is source of poison and infection. Therefore, we will not install them where they can be physically destroyed. What else is left to learn about fluorescent lamps that they prefer not to write about online?

Some features of fluorescent lamps

Let's start with the "death" of such a lamp, which will require a special approach to the "funeral". Type in the search " demercurization recycling mercury my city". Find the nearest point that provides such a service. There are many such points, one or two will definitely be nearby. It is there that you need to hand over the burned-out LL, and not throw it into the trash. There you also need to take energy-saving lamps, mercury, burned-out LEDs and batteries. Unless, of course, you are a person who is not indifferent to the pleasantness of walking around your house.

This is one of the drawbacks that the replacement of fluorescent lamps causes, but not the most difficult. The situation is much more complicated when, after many years of operation, the heel of the lamp “sticks” to the base. Yes, LLs serve for many years, and it often happens that the base is simply overgrown with deposits (condensate, dust, etc.), which makes it impossible to remove the lamp without destroying the bulb. Our recommendation is to invite experts. You must understand that inside the flask there are vapors of mercury and other gases that are heavier than air and which cannot be removed by ventilation.

The voltage drop will disable approximately 30% of the LL. This must be borne in mind when arranging lighting in the country, where voltage drops are not the exception, but rather the rule. The remaining 70% of the lamps will not fail. They simply will work with less efficiency.

If you connect the LL to the network without observing the principle of "phase - neutral wire", then every second lamp will flicker. Even with a serial connection. This is because the fluorescent lamp circuitry contains a capacitor that will shed excess charge if the balances are connected incorrectly.

Even if any schemes for connecting fluorescent lamps are observed, they will still flicker and “blink”. It's not because we didn't figure out how to do it right. This is the physics of electrical breakdown, which cannot be permanent. It "sparks", so the lamp also sparks. The less the ballast (capacitor) works, the better it keeps the "breakdown" level, and the less flickering of the lamp.

Is the lamp flickering? First put in its place another lamp that does not blink. Check the voltage in the network, if everything is in order, replace the starter. If the flashing does not disappear, replace the entire electronic ballast.

And do not forget to take out the lamp from time to time and clean the contacts with a zero sandpaper, this is the Achilles heel of these lamps - the oxidation of the contacts, which significantly affects its performance.

In conclusion, I would like to note that for all their shortcomings, LLs have many advantages, from the long service life and the correct spectrum, to safety and the minimum load on the electrical wiring of the apartment. Therefore, despite the conquest of the lighting market, it is too early to write off fluorescent lamps for scrap. It is more useful to learn how to use them correctly and appropriately.

Thanks to economical power consumption, safety and long service life, LEDs are now confidently replacing many traditional light sources. In particular, fluorescent lamps of the T8 type began to be replaced with LED counterparts everywhere.

Often, it is not necessary to replace the entire luminaire, but simply install LED lamps into existing ones. And to make this process as simple as possible, manufacturers of LED lamps produce them with the same base (G13), and the dimensions completely repeat the dimensions of fluorescent lamps (D=26mm L=600mm / 900mm / 1200mm / 1500mm / 2400mm). It remains only to slightly modernize the electrical circuit and you can install LED tubes.

You can see the entire range of these products in the section LED lamp g13.

Let us consider in more detail the features of installing T8 LED tubes (lamps) in luminaires for fluorescent lamps.

Depending on the type of LED lamp, there are two options for installing lamps:

• With lamp connection for AC 220V (suitable for any original ballast).
• With connection of lamps on AC 110V (only suitable for lamps with ECG).

Note!

1. When installing several lamps in one lamp, use parallel connection. Serial connection is not allowed, because this leads to voltage fluctuations and damage to the lamp driver.
2. Replacement work must be carried out by qualified personnel in accordance with safety regulations and requirements.

1. Connecting lamps to AC 220V :
The first option requires direct power supply of the lamps from the mains 50 Hz 220 V. In this case, you must first remove all elements of the ballast: the electronic unit or elements of electromagnetic control gear (starter, throttle, etc.). The power consumption of the lamp will be the sum of the total power of the LED lamps.
Procedure:

1. Remove fluorescent lamps.
2. Remove the old electronic circuit: a) remove the ballast electronics; b) remove the starters and remove the ballast from electrical circuit, disconnect the capacitor, if any.
3. Insert LED bulbs.
4. Turn on the power.

Wiring diagram for LED direct lamp 220V

After removing the ballast, the luminaires should look something like the photo below (the luminaire has been converted into two lamps 1200 mm long). Use terminals to connect contacts.

Luminescent luminaire type Arktika 2x36 1200mm disassembled on the reverse side after removing all control gear elements for connecting 220V LED lamps.

2. Connecting lamps to AC 110V :

The second option implies that the electromagnetic ballast remains in the circuit, only the starter is removed, such LED lamps are designed to supply a voltage of 110 V. With this connection, the power consumption of the lamp is the sum of the total power of the LED lamps and the power consumed by the remaining control gear. In this option, more electricity will be consumed than in the first one, which means that the savings effect will be less. In addition, it is necessary to first determine exactly what type of control gear is installed in the luminaires.

Procedure:

1. Unplug the light to avoid electric shock.
2. Remove fluorescent lamps.
3. Remove the starters, leave the ballast (or replace the starters with special ones for LED lamps).
4. Insert LED bulbs
5. Turn on the power.

Swivel plinth. What else should you pay attention to:

In lamps, cartridges are installed in different ways: horizontally, vertically, and sometimes at an angle. Since fluorescent lamps shine through 360°, it doesn't matter to them how to install the lamp in the socket. But LED lamps have a directional light flux, so you should pay attention to the location of the slot for the cartridge in the lamp base, otherwise it may turn out that the LED lamp does not shine down, but sideways. The most versatile in this case is the swivel base: it fits any lamp.

Socles of LED lamps: a) not swivel b) swivel.

We hope that our instructions helped you choose and connect LED lamps correctly, and now you are fully using all the advantages of modern LED lighting.

Today there is a trend towards self-manufacturing of various devices for the home, including lighting fixtures. This allows you to give a second life to old household items, as well as save a lot on buying new fixtures. Today we will talk about making a fluorescent lamp with your own hands.

Anyone with even a minimal understanding of the basics of electrical engineering can make such a lighting fixture or repair a failed lamp. Our article will help you with this.

A little about the lamp

Light source

A fluorescent lamp is a product in which a fluorescent lamp acts as a light source. The principle of operation of such a light source is based on the transfer of voltage using mercury vapor. Under the influence of an electric charge, this substance gives a bright glow, so that the lamp has excellent light output.

Note! Such lamps are produced by manufacturers with a different spectrum of luminescence. This allows you to set the lighting of the most comfortable spectrum.

Such a lamp is considered one of the most common models in office, municipal and public institutions. But besides this, it is also quite widely used in private houses and apartments. The popularity of the fluorescent light source has gained due to efficiency and bright glow.
At the same time, the principle of organizing a lighting device is quite simple. Therefore, many today carry out repairs and assembly with their own hands.

What you need to know

All lamps, which include a luminescent light source, are characterized by cylindrical and rectangular shapes. They are narrow and light in weight, so they can be installed in various places in the house.

Note! Such lamps can be connected to the mains (220 (230) V) or run on battery power. The latest models are very relevant for country houses, garages and warehouses.

In addition, this type of fixtures can be of different modifications:

• stationary. This group includes built-in, overhead and ceiling lamps;
• mobile or portable. This includes pendant lights that can be moved from one place to another or simply placed on the floor, table or shelf.

Lamp options

Making both options with your own hands is quite simple. If you understand a little about the device and know how to do everything, then even repairing such a lamp will not be a big deal for you. And our article will try to help you with this.

How and what to do

Most often, do-it-yourself fluorescent lamps are made to illuminate aquariums. Therefore, we will consider the assembly process using this example.
For the operation of such lamps, a rather bulky electronics system is required. But it can be replaced with a chokeless circuit, which will take up much less space. But it will be less reliable than the first option, and the device may need to be repaired soon.
So, the first assembly rule is that such an aquarium lamp must be made so that it completely covers the top of the aquarium.

Approximate view

To make a fluorescent lighting fixture for an aquarium with your own hands, you will need:

• plexiglass;
• fluorescent lamps;
• glue;
• sealant;
• insulating tape;
• wire with timer and plug;
• frame plastic.

Getting Started

You can make such a lighting device with your own hands of any design. But it is better to choose the option with a removable top cover than to give preference to a monolithic design. So, in the case of everything, it will be more convenient to carry out repairs.
Here, the manufacturing process involves the following steps:

• make a frame around the perimeter. It is better to make a two-layer. The top layer will be decorative;
• we collect the electrical system of the lamp according to the scheme;

Assembly diagram

• make sure that all contacts are securely insulated. In a situation with a close location of water, this is vital. To do this, sealed tips should be put on the ends of the lamps;

Note! Sealed tips can be made from improvised means.

• we attach the entire electrical circuit to the plastic cover of the lamp;
• then, with the help of glue, we fix a plexiglass rectangle on the underside of the device;
• on top we put on a plastic cover on which fluorescent lamps are installed. The cover must be easy to remove so that the appliance can be repaired.

Almost finished product

If the cover is black, then it must be pasted over with a white reflective film. For white plastic, such manipulations are not carried out.
In places where the lamp is connected to the aquarium, it is necessary to go through with sealant to prevent condensation from penetrating into the lighting fixture. But before applying the sealant, do not forget to degrease the glass.

Second option

In the second case, we will use the base for the lamp from the electronic ballast (electronic ballast). Such a handmade product is perfect for technical or utility rooms.
In this situation, you will need:

• frame. It can be made from improvised materials (just do not take flammable products);
• electronic choke or electronic ballast. It is better to use the second option;
• cartridges G13. They are taken at the rate of two cartridges per lamp;
• copper stranded wires with a cross section of 0.2-0.5 sq. mm. Suitable and flexible (stranded) with tinned ends;
• screws and nuts for installing all parts on the case.

We make the lamp as follows:

• install cartridges at the required distance from each other;
• we attach the electronic ballast. Since this element will heat up during operation, we position it in such a way that it is affected by a minimum of third-party heating;
• we connect the cartridges with electronic ballasts according to the scheme;

Wiring diagram

• to connect the cartridge, it is necessary to remove the insulation from its wire. It is necessary to remove about 1 cm;
• after that, the wire free from insulation must be inserted into the hole as far as it will go;

Note! According to the specifics of the selected cartridge, it is necessary to select wires according to the cross section. It is better to use single-wire wires.

• you just need to insert the wires into the cartridges, and they are clamped by the leaf spring holders inside;
• well isolate all contacts between the wires;
• we place all the elements inside the case and cover it with a protective cover on top. Despite the fact that this is not a mandatory procedure for low pressure lamps, protection of the device and its contents is still necessary. Otherwise, damage to the lamps from mechanical shocks and the release of mercury vapor, which are very toxic to the human body, may occur;
• for better sealing along the entire length of the body, you can additionally walk with a sealant. But this will complicate the process of repairing and replacing failed lamp parts in the future.

Finished device

The connection of such a lighting device will go to the mains for 220V. This design allows you to place the lamps on the wall or ceiling. However, repairs for such products will be somewhat difficult due to the method of mounting the device.
As practice shows, fluorescent lamps assembled with their own hands according to this scheme work well and for a long time. But for this it is necessary that the temperature environment was in the range from -10 to +30°C.
Summing up, we can conclude that the process of self-assembly of a luminescent model lighting device is not so complicated. The main thing here is to follow the connection diagram of all components of the electrical circuit and clearly follow the sequence of manipulations.

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