How to make a motorcycle faster. Homemade motorcycle made by yourself: photo and detailed description Is it possible to assemble a motorcycle yourself

DIY chopper, or maybe buy a ready-made motorcycle? This is a question asked by many motorcyclists, especially beginners, who have long decided for themselves that they will not ride a plastic sport, but a real iron motorcycle, in which the sound of the legendary V-twin produces a solid sound, and not the sound of a screeching coffee grinder. In this article, which is more aimed at beginners in the interesting art of customization, we will look at what you need to make the right chopper with your own hands, and how to make many details for it that will make it quite original and have a cool appearance .

It’s not so easy to write how to build a chopper with your own hands, since there are now a huge number of styles of customized motorcycles (custom), and their coolness directly depends on the number of banknotes, the skillful hands of the master and the equipment he has in his garage. And when reading about the construction of a specific custom, some novice customizer may simply not be able to manufacture it, due to a lack of funds and the necessary equipment. Or he simply may not like the style of some custom, because there are a lot of styles.

Therefore, this article will not describe the construction of any specific custom of a certain style, and my recommendations in this article will be purely conditional, but I still hope they will be useful for novice customizers. In addition, when building any chopper, quite a lot of nuances may arise that cannot be described in one article.

But for a more detailed explanation, when making some parts for a chopper with my own hands, I will put the appropriate link, by clicking on which the dear reader will be able to study in more detail and detail the manufacture of some equipment or some part of a chopper, and successfully apply this knowledge at home in the garage. And so let's go.

What you need before you start making a chopper with your own hands.

The first thing you need to do before starting work is decide on a budget. After all, the right chopper, which in terms of workmanship and coolness can easily outperform a serial factory bike, requires a certain investment of money. And the larger these investments, the cooler the finished custom will turn out.

Of course, with certain skills in working with metal and the availability of appropriate equipment, tools and materials, you can make a decent chopper without large investments. But many novice motorcyclists do not have the skills, equipment, or suitable materials. And a significant part of the money will be spent on high-quality tools, materials and some devices, which will be described below, and without which you can’t do anything with your bare hands.

And of course, the bulk of the money will be spent on buying the donor’s motorcycle; you can’t live without it. After all, you can’t make an engine and a frame with a number and the corresponding documents on your own, even if you have super expensive equipment in a workshop (you can make a frame from scratch, but it will be numberless). Moreover, some parts from some donor motorcycles can be used.

This is the same engine, a part of the frame with a number, a front wheel (not always, but often used after modification), a front fender (of course also redone), a front fork and other parts that, with certain skills and tools, can be changed beyond recognition.

In order to save a significant amount of money, you can buy a donor motorcycle in poor condition or damaged, the main thing is that it has the documents in order and that after the accident the engine and the number on the frame are preserved. The engine, documents and part of the frame with a nameplate or number on it are the main things you need to build a chopper, and everything else can be made yourself, or purchased from catalogs.

And after buying a donor’s motorcycle, before you start disassembling it, cutting it and doing anything with it, of course you must first re-register it in your name, register it, and I wrote how to do this correctly (the legalization of a homemade bike is also described in detail there ). This will help avoid problems in the future.

And the serial frame itself, in addition to expanding its rear part, will also need to be modified. For example, in the steering columns of domestic motorcycle frames, there are still weak bicycle-type thrust bearings, which wear out very quickly and the handling of the motorcycle is, to put it mildly, lame. And the first thing you should do is replace these bearings with more powerful conical ones (such as in the Dnepr and Uralov wheels, but one size larger).

To do this, the standard bearing cups are cut off from the frame, and cups of slightly larger diameter are welded in their place, into which the outer races of the tapered bearings are subsequently pressed. I wrote more about this in, as well as in an article about the geometry of motorcycle frames, and the link to this article is below in the text.

The frames of modern imported motorcycles already have more or less normal bearings from the factory, but even such frames have plenty of modifications. Since even imported serial frames are heavier and uglier than homemade frames made from scratch, and from most serial frames (especially Japanese motorcycles) excess parts have to be cut off to lighten the weight.

Of course, there are a large number of types of frames (we read what types of frames there are) and everyone chooses their own option. But now old-school style choppers are very popular, which have very light hardtail-style frames (translated as rigid), which do not have a rear suspension and therefore have beautiful classic lines of a triangular rear part. And such frames are the lightest.

And although it is quite uncomfortable to drive on our roads on such frames, beauty and style require sacrifice. And such devices are designed not for long trips, but for short rides around the city, or for moving the driver’s body from bar to bar. And choppers with such frames are very popular now.

The front fork can easily transform the appearance of any chopper, and can change not only the silhouette, but also the driving performance of your motorcycle. Although, again, when building a chopper, most customizers, as a rule, do not pay attention to handling and comfort, the main thing is the appearance, which determines the coolness of the chopper and which can cause significant excitement in gray city traffic.

Of course, in addition to the fork, the silhouette and driving performance of the motorcycle are influenced by the angle of the steering column, and to be precise, by the trail and rack, which should be taken into account when remaking the frame or making it from scratch. This topic is worthy of a separate article, which I wrote, and I recommend reading in detail about the angles and geometry of the frame. The same article describes in detail the modification of frames of domestic motorcycles and the replacement of bearings with tapered ones.

The most popular type of modification of serial forks is to lengthen them with special inserts and replace the yokes with wider ones, or simply polish the standard yokes. When lengthening the fork stays, in order not to lift the frame relative to the ground and maintain a beautiful silhouette and low ground clearance, you should increase. That is, to ensure that after installing a longer fork, the ground clearance (the distance from the lower frame tubes to the ground) remains the same as it was.

But most often the ground clearance (clearance) is lowered by a factor of two, and in addition to the stronger tilt of the fork, the lowering is also affected by the alteration of the rear part of the frame (moving the rear wheel axis higher than it was in stock). With all this work, it is very important to maintain the clear geometry of the steering column and the entire frame, and such alterations can be carried out correctly only if you have a slipway (the link to the article about the slipway is located above, in the list of tools and accessories).

So installing an extended fork is not so simple and will entail a number of serious alterations to the frame itself and its steering column, taking into account the correct angles (rack and trail - there is a link about them just above, about the angles of the steering column).

But now old-school and bobber-style motorcycles have become very popular, in which the fork (usually a springer) does not extend, or extends only slightly. But changing the angle of the steering column is also quite often used on these devices.

Indeed, with a greater angle of the steering column, even with a short fork, the silhouette of the custom bike improves significantly (it becomes more rapid). At the same time, the ground clearance is only a couple of centimeters and it becomes difficult to drive on our roads with such a device. But still, for many this is not important, because beauty requires sacrifice.

For so-called free-style choppers, a gas tank with a concave bottom, the manufacture of which I described, may be suitable. Well, if anyone is interested in seeing how I made a more complex tank, then watch the video below, which I published on my suvorov-custom channel as a guide for beginners and in order to fill the gap on this topic on the Russian-speaking Internet. I have no secrets and I think it will be useful for beginners to watch this video, divided into three parts.

Of course, beginners should first try to make a simpler classic tank, and as they gain some experience, move on to more complex products. But still, even when making a more complex tank, in the video below, there are some tips that I hope will be useful to novice customizers.

By the way, on my channel suvorov-custom (on YouTube) there are other videos on working with sheet metal and I hope over time, as I have free time, I will try to publish more such videos, and in order not to miss new videos, do not forget to subscribe to channel.

As for the wings, of course, like the tank, they should also match the style. And for example, bobbers or radical choppers may not have a front wing at all, and the rear wing is usually very short. But it’s still better to make a wing for a chopper from scratch, since altering a standard wing does not always coincide with the style of the future custom one. In addition, an exclusive wing made from scratch will be one and only, and this will add coolness to it.

And while you can do without a leather canopy, you can’t do without a seat. But I described how to make a seat for a chopper with your own hands from scratch, and it describes two options for making seats, with a plastic base and with a metal one.

Well, under the article I publish a useful and interesting video that proves that with skillful hands and a bright head, you can make an excellent custom even from an ancient Japanese motorcycle, and the engine of this motorcycle is not a twin at all, but an inline four. But it doesn’t spoil the look of the custom at all.

This video once again proves that you can make a unique custom even from trash, and I hope that this video will be an incentive for beginners and will serve as an impetus for them to start further work.

Well, I hope that this article will at least a little help beginners build a chopper with their own hands, and maybe in the near future, you will take this matter more seriously and make this exciting activity your main source of income, good luck to everyone!

Today's article from the series about the design of a motorcycle is devoted to frames. Without this important unit, our two-wheeled friends would turn into uncontrollable projectiles, swinging from side to side at the slightest attempt by the rider to influence the trajectory of movement. Yes, and we need to somehow tie together all the other elements of the design!

In general, whatever one may say, the frame is a necessary thing. And even though designers have recently been trying in every possible way to refute this statement, the widespread abandonment of the frame is still very far away (if it ever happens). Let's look at the points common to all design options, and then move on to specifics.

Don't let it fall apart

The frame is designed to perform many functions, which can be divided into “structural” and “geometric”. On the structural side, the frame is needed to house and secure the engine, transmission, suspension, and so on. To accomplish this, the frame must be rigid, strong, and as light as possible. The geometric role of the frame is to provide required parameters suspension and steering geometry (these characteristics are discussed in the second part of the material on the design of the front suspension), wheelbase and center of gravity position. There is also a non-obvious, but very important point - it is the frame that ensures that the wheels are aligned in line.

The frame also needs to be stiff enough to resist cornering, acceleration and braking forces - all without input from the steering or suspension. All of the above has been defining since the appearance of the first motorcycle frames. If the necessary rigidity is not present, the front wheel may move relative to the rear - ranging from slight to very dangerous.

Low frame rigidity will not only lead to a poor riding experience for the rider, it will negate all the benefits of an excellent engine. After all, if the bike constantly wobbles, the pilot will not be able to ride aggressively and assertively, and more technically advanced rivals will bypass him. It is a well-known fact, confirmed by many examples from sports, that many victories have been achieved due to advantages in the frame, even despite the use of a not very powerful motor.

However, sport is one thing, and civilian driving is completely different. In the latter case, the cost and shape of the frame are as important as other characteristics. There's no doubt that a well-built frame will transform an otherwise lackluster car. This is noticeable in small-scale production, where it is possible to pay attention to the smallest details and hone technologies to perfection. Therefore, tuning frames will always be popular among a narrow circle of perfectionist riders who want to push the handling of their bike to the limit.

With the advent of the Moto2 racing class, the production of refined and well-thought-out frames has reached a new level. After all, now manufacturers have the opportunity to test their developments in the harshest crucible of top-level competitions. Industry veterans like Harris and Moriwaki have been joined by new names like RSV, which previously only focused on designing components for aircraft structures. Knowledge, skill, intuition, even inspiration - all this is very important in such a difficult task as ensuring a balance of handling characteristics. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s a grand prix projectile or a road workhorse.

Half a kilo back, three forward

And work begins on the future “cocoon” for the machine elements with weight distribution and adjusting the position of the center of gravity. The design of the motorcycle does not allow much flexibility in the placement of large components, such as the fuel tank, engine, rear and front suspension. Fortunately, this arrangement of nodes is quite successful in terms of weight distribution.

The center of gravity has a huge impact on two main indicators: firstly, acceleration and braking, and secondly, cornering. When choosing the position of the center of gravity, designers are primarily guided by issues of acceleration and braking, and only then by cornering. If you think a little, another conclusion will also appear - the center of gravity determines the degree of weight redistribution during acceleration and braking, and therefore directly affects the coefficient of adhesion of the tires to the road surface.

In an ideal position of the center of gravity, slipping of the rear wheel during acceleration would begin only when the front wheel left the ground. Likewise, the front wheel would lock during braking only when the rear wheel left the ground.

One can only imagine the titanic work of designers working on racing motorcycles - after all, these bikes spend a lot of time on one wheel! Just watch the slow-motion replays of MotoGP riders lifting the rear wheel off the ground in the braking zone, but the front tire remains in contact with the asphalt. The amount of tire grip on the road is also affected by the length of the wheelbase: if you increase it while keeping the center of gravity constant, grip will actually decrease due to the relative angles between the wheels.

We think further. When turning, it is desirable (no, for the rider’s peace of mind - even necessary!) to ensure equal grip of the front and rear tires on the asphalt. It follows from this that the center of gravity should be equidistant from the wheels, that is, located in the middle of the wheelbase. But the height of the center of gravity is always a compromise. A high center of gravity provides better tire grip, which allows for more intense acceleration and braking when cornering, and the turning radius is also reduced. However, with a low center of gravity, inertia about the roll axis decreases, in other words, the steering becomes more sensitive. This bike feels less heavy when moving, more nimble and easier to control at low speeds and when skidding.

One way or another, there is no ideal solution that applies to all situations regarding the height of the center of gravity. Therefore, it is selected based on the purpose and “habitat” of the motorcycle.

Having understood what we need from the future frame, let's choose the most optimal material for it and give the structural elements the desired shape.

Difficulty of choice

Initially, when the experience of building frames was just beginning to add up, manufacturers tried everything. Lengths of steel pipe were fastened at various points using brackets to form the steering column and suspension arm mounting points. Before welding became widespread, pipes were coated with solder, then inserted into bracket bosses and heated. Of course, such “native” methods did not have a very good effect on the rigidity of the structure, so with the spread of welding, they began to approach the frame manufacturing process differently.

While welding remains the most preferred method of joining for aluminum and steel, it is no longer suitable for composite materials. And in general, with composites everything is a little different, but more on that below. For now, let's talk about the configuration of the frame elements.

The traditional approach is based on the use of triangular structures, this is perfectly illustrated by a simple bicycle frame, and a birdcage too. The diamond formed by the frame tubes is divided into two triangles by a tube running between the saddle and the pedal axle. This gives the diamond-shaped frame greater rigidity and strength, while each tube remains effectively secured against bending. A similar triangle approach is used on a variety of motorcycles, from early 20th-century dinosaurs to cutting-edge racing machines.

In those frames that are not sufficiently reinforced with triangular structures, the engine is used as a stiffening element. It is secured at three points between the open parts of the frame. As a rule, a “rigid” engine turns out to be heavier than one that does not participate in the formation of the power structure, however, due to the lower weight of the frame, there is no overall increase in the weight of the machine.

Computer theoretical research

Fortunately, the benefits of the development of our civilization have also affected the design of motorcycle frames. Now you don't have to make dozens various options designs, discarding unsuccessful ones and improving those that cope with the assigned tasks better than others. The use of our silicon brothers allows us to simulate a virtual prototype of the frame, and then subject it to various tests: set the necessary loads, check the reaction of the structure to vibration.

New techniques - new tasks. As a result of computer modeling, it turned out that most frame pipes in different planes should have different strengths. Round pipes have equal strength in all directions, while square or rectangular pipes have greater strength in one direction than the other. Therefore, where necessary, square or rectangular pipes can be used to save weight or increase rigidity.

It may even turn out that it is worth “stressing” the engine by placing part of the load on it. However, one should not think that they began to do this only with the advent of computer frame modeling: back in the fifties, Vincent successfully included an engine in the power circuit of the Black Shadow motorcycle - the “dad” of all modern superbikes, it was so technologically advanced, advanced and fast for its time. Perhaps someday we will talk about this motorcycle in more detail, but now we’ll talk in more detail about the various materials used in the manufacture of frames.

"Spine" made of steel

Steel has been the most widely used material since the invention of the motorcycle. On its side are low cost and high strength. In addition, steel is easy to give the desired shape, it can be easily welded, and the maintainability of steel frames is at a high level. But when the highest rigidity with minimum weight is required from the frame, then good old steel has serious competitors.

Many scooters use stamped steel parts because they are much cheaper than steel pipes. But the main problem of such elements is corrosion of internal surfaces due to water getting into them. The frame can quietly rust from the inside, having reached such a condition, after which no repair will help.

A better alternative to steel is aluminum alloy. Its strength and weight are about three times less than that of steel, therefore, to create an aluminum frame that is equivalent to steel, it will need to be increased by three times. But stiffness depends on the area of ​​the material, and an aluminum frame with the same strength and weight as steel will actually be three times stiffer. Therefore, as stiffness increases, there is no increase in weight.

When creating aluminum frame members with a large cross-sectional area, the aluminum is extruded through a die in a semi-cured state, creating a triangular or box profile that greatly increases rigidity. In addition, it allows you to reduce the thickness of the outer walls of the profile - which has a positive effect on weight.

Casting, forging, rolling - various frame elements can be created in different ways, which means they can be given the desired shape, maintaining a balance of rigidity and weight. The “dark side” of aluminum frames is their higher price compared to steel, as well as lower maintainability. A broken and “behaving” aluminum frame is very difficult to restore, and even if this is possible, the rigidity of the structure will not return to its original level in any case.

Then begins the journey into the world of exotic materials. Magnesium, for example, has extremely low mass, and its strength is not inferior to aluminum alloy. This is where its advantages end. If magnesium is not treated with expensive coatings, its oxidation resistance will tend to zero. An exorbitant price and a weak desire to be welded complete the picture of this extremely interesting, but generally poorly applicable metal.

If the element does not have connections - for example, an engine cover or a wheel rim - then using magnesium can be considered a good choice. Although there is an example of a motorcycle in the design of which a magnesium frame was used. This is the 1986 ELF R, which holds six different world records. From more mundane things, the Yamaha YZF-R6, starting from 2008, carries a magnesium alloy subframe in its “tail”.

Titanium is becoming more and more accessible, it is widely used on racing motorcycles, and from time to time production cars also get a little of this silvery-white metal. The advantages of the material include strength similar to steel, complemented by low weight and a categorical reluctance to rust.

However, the future use of titanium is highly dependent on advances in the development of composite materials, as they perform even better. Carbon fiber reinforced plastic (CFRP) or Kevlar, combined with resin binders and sometimes aluminum honeycomb structures, can provide enormous stiffness in specific load directions. The extreme rise in price of a motorcycle is offset by the incredible rigidity of the frame - it is not surprising that “composites” are widely used on bikes from Bimota, MV Agusta and the like.

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In the next article we will talk about what types of frames are used in modern motorcycles, and also pay a little attention to control problems that arise due to various errors in the bike's chassis. Stay with us!

Who wouldn't want to make a mini motorcycle with their own hands! We present to your attention the simplest design of such a mini motorcycle.

To make our mini motorcycle, the following materials are needed: an old bicycle frame from a men's road bike; front fork and steering wheel; a D-4, D-5 or D-6 engine and two wheels for kart-type machines measuring 250x50 mm. You can use other wheels - from a scooter, children's bicycles or scooters.

To make a mini motorcycle with your own hands, you will also need a piece of iron tube or rod with a diameter of 16-18 mm, several nails with a diameter of 4-6 mm, two or three wooden blocks, an iron strip 1-2 mm thick, several bolts with nuts and cuttings of plywood thick 8-12 mm.

The tools you will need to make a mini motorcycle are: a drill, a hacksaw, several drills, a blowtorch or gas torch, as well as a bench vise or hammer.

The first and most complex part of a mini motorcycle is the frame. To make it, you need to cut parts from a road bike frame: parts 1, 2 and 3. The dimensions of parts 1 and 2 are given in the drawing, and the size of the stays 3 will depend on the size of the wheel.

Part 6 is cut from the remainder of the lower frame tube.

Now let's start assembling a new frame from parts. To do this, you need a wooden block and nails, which will be used as rivets.

Take a wooden block at least 100 mm long and grind it so that it fits tightly into the cavities of parts 1 and 2. Place coupling 6 on part 1. Insert the block into the part half its length, and push part 2 onto the other half until it stops. with the first detail. They will be connected at the top by coupling 6. Place the connected parts on a flat surface; Departing 10 mm from each edge of coupling 6, drill through holes along the diameter of the nail. Insert the nail pieces into the holes and rivet them.

Still not fast enough? There are 9 ways that will turn a motorcycle, if not into lightning, then into wind - that’s for sure. Below are the cheapest and most accessible ways to make a bike more dynamic and powerful.

1. Exhaust processing and installation of a power control unit

Installing a tuning exhaust system and reworking the fuel mapping on the motorcycle will significantly reduce its weight (since parts of advanced systems are made of light alloys). In addition, such an upgrade will improve throttle response, add power, and increase torque. It will also make your motorcycle look more stylish, which will add a little more to the feeling of speed and power.

2. Suspension

If the motorcycle is not equipped with adjustable suspension, then it is worth installing it - it will completely change the way you ride. The ability to adjust compression and damping settings based on the driver's weight will help adapt to high-speed maneuvering.

You can buy a good suspension setup from the Race Tech brand. But if there is no money for this, you should pick up a set of equipment at a disassembly site and install it on the bike. The front part of the motorcycle deserves special attention here. Over time, the rear suspension can also be upgraded. So tuning will not require significant investments.

3. Professional suspension tuning

Regardless of the cost of a new suspension, after installing it you may be left with the feeling that it doesn't work well enough. And the point here is not in materials or manufacturing defects, but in the need for professional tuning. This is what allows us to get the most out of modernization. Therefore, you should not save money on the last step towards the coveted speed and dynamics, but you need to look for specialists who will help you do it.

Important! Suspension tuning should be entrusted to specialists with a proven reputation and qualifications.

4. Replacing rims

Wheels are a piece of equipment on which many manufacturing companies save money. Heavy wheels are an irreducible mass that will not allow even the most advanced and fantastic suspension to reduce the negative impact on driving characteristics. If you install a good set of wheels, the difference will immediately become noticeable. There are many great options in the market at different price points.

5. Tire selection

Now that your bike has light or ultra-light wheels, you need to put some really good tires on them. But you should understand that tires have different characteristics - some provide excellent stability, others are good at extreme leaning while cornering. Almost all online forums dedicated to motorcycles have a separate section where tires are discussed. So it's worth spending time learning about people's experiences. But this can't be done without trial and error. Otherwise, you will not be able to find the tires that are ideal for the driver and match his driving style.

6. Replacing the brake system

Installing new brake pads and steel brake lines is an effective means of increasing speed and dynamics. But under high inertial loads, stopping the motorcycle will be a challenge and requires improved disc brakes. The larger and lighter they are, the better. For example, Galfer produces just such kits for bikes.

7. Engine tuning

Reflashing the power unit will add up to 20% of the motorcycle’s power. But to do this without damaging the engine, you need a qualified specialist. Before solving this problem, you should weigh the pros and cons, since after tuning the management style will change. There is also no point in reflashing engines of top modifications.

8. Buy or make your dream bike

To save time on tuning, you can immediately buy a powerful motorcycle of the latest modification. But if there is no money to purchase such a device, you need to buy a cheap, low-power motorcycle and gradually, with your own efforts, turn it into a two-wheeled dream.

Hai! How to make a motorcycle is what interests the most fanatical motorcyclists and bikers. Why? The point is not the high cost of new factory motorcycles or even the fashion for homemade vehicles. Such a desire is caused rather by the desire to express oneself, as well as to find a bike that is as customized as possible.

The vse-o-moto.com team will help you with this. Below you will find a list of tips for assembling a two-wheeler with your own hands.

Most riders prefer riding bikes with an upright stance. Therefore, we recommend developing a classic type iron horse or a chopper. It is also advisable to take into account that it is better to move the footrests forward for the purpose of comfortable eating.

Creating a first-class bike from the Urals, Izh, Minsk. Voskhod and other serial iron horses, do not forget about the aesthetics of a huge steering wheel extended over a long distance. The most attractive type of fuel tank will be the “droplet”. An extended type of front fork will also add maximum beauty to your motorcycle with your own hands.

Before making a motorcycle, it won’t hurt to study video lessons either. You need to understand what parts of the future bike you can make yourself (primarily the frame, instrument panels, cases, plastic fairings, wheel spokes, saddle, etc.), and what you can hardly even design in drawings (engine , wheel rims and electronic components).

How to make a homemade motorcycle?

First you need to decide on the frame, but we will talk about this below. Now let's move on to engine selection. There are many engine options. Internal combustion engines are created by factories in two types: four-stroke and two-stroke. As an alternative, you can install an electric motor. In the latter case, you need to provide a lot of space for batteries in the frame of the two-wheeler. Of the internal combustion engines, 4-stroke engines are more valued in practice and are also used.
You don't have to buy a new engine. By visiting transport dumps/flea markets and searching a little on the Internet on bulletin boards, you can pick up quite good options for engines and spare parts for them. It's best to polish and tune everything you find.

These days it’s not difficult to find ready-made drawings and diagrams of unique motorcycles made with your own hands from paper, from a lighter, from Lego, from the Urals, etc. Experienced customizers from TV screens will also tell you how to make a moto. To this day, the “Western” media have produced many interesting television programs on this subject. You can also order custom assembly in a professional workshop by experienced mechanics who work in almost any city in our great homeland.

Where to start assembling a motorcycle with your own hands?

Having ready-made motorcycle project diagrams at hand, as well as materials for their practical implementation, you can safely move on to the direct processing of pipes and metal sheets in the process of creating a frame. Each part of the chassis can be chromed or painted to give it a more aesthetic appearance. This is also done to prevent corrosion of the chassis.

You can also create wheel rims with your own hands. Still, why “reinvent the wheel” if many compatriots know from practice how to make a motorcycle from the Urals or Dnieper MT. using the frame, engine and electronics of the latter. By adding other unique nodes to them, you will clearly get an iron horse that is unlike any other.

Having installed an extended fork (preferably adapted for a front disc brake), homemade traverses (created using a steel sheet with a thickness of several tens of millimeters), the bike’s handlebars are mounted using brackets. The brackets are also used to mount the rear shock absorbers. They are considered a secure base for holding the seat back. Here you can fix various panniers and the trunk of the bike.

How to assemble a complete homemade motorcycle

It is better to choose/create a two-level saddle for a two-wheeled custom. Before creating it, you need to find a thick sheet of steel (about 2 mm). The latter will bend along the contour from the future tank to the rear panel. To make the edges of the saddle more rigid, you need to bead its sides 1 cm down. The soft part of the seat can be made of ordinary thick foam rubber. Leather is best suited for all this as upholstery. When installing the seat, it is necessary to install rubber gaskets on the frame directly under it.

Also make sure that in the future your homemade bike can be placed on a leg as easily as possible when parked. For these purposes, it is better to choose a side knife, which is mounted on the left side member of the frame and has the ability to easily recline in the presence of a spring.

The steering wheel should be attached not only to rear-view mirrors, levers, cables, but also to various electrical appliances, which can be purchased together with the body in many places. The devices that look most beautiful are those placed in chrome-plated boxes/cylinders.

You need to know how to make a motorcycle with your own hands as correctly as possible even before installing the throttle handle on the steering wheel. The latter is made with small turned rubber rings.

Don’t forget about installing turn indicators on your homemade bike. Their absence on a motorcycle can lead to various dangers on the road. You can supplement the classic set of lighting devices (headlight, brake, turn signals) by installing small flashlights near the front headlight. Additional safety will be provided by installing safety arches on a homemade iron horse.

Important to remember: When making a motorcycle with your own hands, make sure that in the future you will be able to register it with the road control authorities. Any major changes in the design of the bike must be registered with the traffic police/traffic police.

How are engines for BMW motorcycles assembled?

Description:
The factory assembly process of the legendary boxer engine for BMW motorcycles.

How it works (Motorcycles).

Every boy dreams of building his own motorcycle and riding it like a breeze when he grows up.

Czech writer Martin Sodomka shares the passion of little researchers for mechanisms. Especially for them, he wrote an amazing book, “How to Build a Motorcycle.”

And today we will talk about it.

A new technical fairy tale

The book “How to Build a Motorcycle” is the third in a series of technical tales. The first two - “How to assemble a car” and “How to assemble an airplane” - have already managed to win the hearts of children and parents.

In the new story, the main characters - Arnie the mouse, Bill the sparrow and Christian the frog - have a new idea. This time they decided to assemble a motorcycle.

The story in the book is simple and fascinating. As always, together with the heroes, the child will follow the entire process of assembling a motorcycle, find out what it has in common with a car, and also understand such complex mechanisms as shock absorbers, brakes, clutch, gearbox and carburetor.

And, by the way, the book is a real serious reference book. But it is presented so captivatingly that it is perceived as a fairy tale.

Down to the screw

We are sure that if you see the book - until you scroll through to the end - you will not stop. There are bright, beautiful, lively illustrations on every page. And all images of details are signed. To make it easy to understand what we are talking about.

And on almost every page there are detailed diagrams that tell and show how the engine works, how the wheel, steering wheel and suspension work. Look how everything is described in detail - right down to the screw:

Just something complicated

Martin Sodomka is an engineer and designer by training, so he definitely knows a lot about mechanisms. In addition, he assembles retro cars himself: from the first to the last screw. And at the same time he is very well versed in children's literature and owns his own publishing house.

He brilliantly managed to combine his technical knowledge and artistic talent and write truly meaningfully and simply about complex things.

The texts in the book are excellent. Both interesting and understandable:
“Look: these are shock absorbers,” Karl showed. - Just like in a car, they smooth out vibrations due to unevenness in the road, so that the motorcycle does not gallop along it like a mountain goat over the hills. The shock absorbers are attached to brackets on the frame at the top, and to the pendulum at the bottom.

Laws of physics

The book is really very informative. Look, this is what just one illustration looks like. Looking at it and reading the text, the child learns:
- What is ignition and how does it work?
- What is a battery and a capacitor?
- How are the headlights arranged?
- What does the brake light control and much more.

But that is not all.
The book not only explains the operation of different parts of a motorcycle, but also reveals the operation of the laws of physics. This knowledge will definitely be useful at school.

The book “How to Assemble a Motorcycle” is a truly joyful gift for little technology lovers, as well as their dads. Even adults will be delighted by Martin Sodomka's technical tales. And they will help children develop erudition and spend many interesting evenings. Isn’t it great to already understand the structure of a motorcycle and the laws of physics at the age of 5-7? Knowledge that will be useful for life.

What can I say - a book for “real men” from the age of 6. And if a dad has a motorcycle and his son sleeps and sees how to tame it, then it’s a godsend. It is about three fearless friends - Arnie the mouse, Bill the sparrow and Christian the frog, who have just returned from warm countries on a plane that they themselves built. This time they decided to build a real motorcycle and race it. The titles of the sections of the book sound quite adult: “Drum brake with mechanical drive”, “Engine”, “Gearbox”, “Wiring diagram”, etc. Each of them clearly describes the stages of assembling a motorcycle and provides diagrams of the structure of its parts, down to the smallest details. Mothers leafing through the book will probably get lost in a sea of ​​unfamiliar words (at least those like me, who are used to riding my husband’s motorcycle only as a passenger). But among the younger generation with a technical spirit, all these ball bearings, bushings and crank mechanisms evoke reverent interest and a desire to look at pictures, even instead of cartoons.
The unusual design of the book deserves special attention. It looks like it's been lying around in a garage for a couple of months, it's worn out in some places, taped up in some places, and covered in fuel oil stains in others. But, despite the visual dilapidation, the book is made very well, with thick matte pages, a hard cover and beautiful illustrations made by the author of the book, Martin Sodomka, with colored pencils. Holding such a publication in your hands is a real pleasure, regardless of your type of thinking, technical or humanitarian :)
Overall, a solid five. Laskava Roksolana, www.labirint.ru/reviews/goods/513343/

I bought this book on the recommendation of a friend. Somehow it’s easier for me with girls, but as a boy I’m always tormented about which book to buy. This book, as they say, is it! An auto mechanic friend of mine looked at this book and said that all the information in the book is reliable, and the book contains a lot of detailed and useful information about the device of a motorcycle. As for the age audience of this book, the book turned out to be interesting both for a small child of 6 years old and for an adult child of 30 years old))) Alisa Sazonova, www.labirint.ru/reviews/goods/513343/

Buy on OZON.ru for 489

How to assemble a motorcycle?

A motorcycle is a means of transportation that may already be more relevant than a car. By riding a motorcycle you can avoid numerous and protracted traffic jams. But it’s worth considering that maintaining a motorcycle is not that cheap. Repairing an “iron horse” may cost you more than repairing a car.

Stage one: developing an idea for a future motorcycle

You, of course, understand that there are a great many types of motorcycles. First of all, determine the class of your future motorcycle. This is what will serve as the basis for choosing style and design.

It is possible that you are full of fresh and creative ideas that you are ready to bring to life right now. But the fact is that only professionals can handle this. And if you have never assembled a motorcycle before, you should choose something simpler that will be easy to implement and then transform and improve. It is for this purpose that you choose what you will start from when assembling your “horse”.

At this stage, it is necessary to fully understand the idea of ​​​​the future motorcycle. Draw up a so-called action plan. You need to think about the design, the shape of the motorcycle, the set of parts you will need for assembly, the engine components (its power), and so on.

Stage two: draw a diagram

At this stage you need to draw a diagram of the future motorcycle. You don't have to be an outstanding artist to be able to draw a motorcycle diagram. Let this all be very conditional, the main thing is that you transfer your idea to paper. In general, all ideas should be sketched and written down on paper, because perhaps in the process you will improve your own ideas, and in order not to forget anything, record and sketch everything.

Using the finished diagram, you can draw up a scale drawing on which to calculate the dimensions of parts for a motorcycle (for example, a frame). For this we need:

1. a simple pencil;
2. eraser;
3. large ruler;
4. paper (it is better to use scale paper for drawing);
5. meter (or tape measure) for taking measurements of motorcycle parts;
6. calculator for making calculations.

It will be useful to make not only a general drawing of the motorcycle, but also all the parts separately. Having a visual diagram in front of you will make it easier for you to navigate while assembling the motorcycle, which will reduce the risk of errors. So, later, using the finished drawing, you can check whether all the parts are installed correctly, and whether you inadvertently forgot something.

You can also draw a finished motorcycle and color it.

Stage three: set of elements

At this stage it is necessary to purchase or possibly find all spare parts, such as:

1. engine;
2. wheels;
3. frame;
4. metal pipes;
5. suspension;
6. fuel tank;
7. muffler.

In addition to the basic elements, you will need additional parts and tools for

possible improvements, for example:

1. hammer, sledgehammer;
2. welding (and, accordingly, electrodes);
3. spanners;
4. Screwdriver Set;
5. various pliers (pliers, pliers);
6. bolts, and washers and nuts for them;
7. grinder for sawing off parts;
8. putty set;
9. good paint (it’s better to take it in a can so that there are no smudges later) and acetone;
10. kerosene for cleaning parts from rust;
11. small wiring;
12. stickers for decorating the "iron horse".

In general, you need to purchase everything that you wrote down on your list at the first stage, and, perhaps, added in the process of creating the image of the motorcycle.

Stage four: manual assembly

If you don't have a lot of experience, you may not be able to collect everything the first time,

as it should be. The main thing is not to despair. You can always ask for advice from specialists, those people who deal with assembling a motorcycle or simply know its structure. There are also many resources on the Internet to help you understand the structure of a motorcycle.

A hand-built motorcycle is called “custom”, which means “custom”. This term describes the motorcycle's prefabricated appearance, which suggests that all the parts were handpicked and the design is also a unique idea - yours or someone else's.

Motorcycle assembly procedure

Now that everything has been checked, you can take your motorcycle out onto the street and try to ride a certain distance. Don't try to get the most out of your bike right away. Start testing little by little. If you notice any unusual noises, the vehicle may have been assembled incorrectly and requires additional careful inspection. Don’t let things take their course, because it’s for your own safety.

After successful tests, you can get down to business with the design: paint your motorcycle as you please, install additional units and gadgets. Now your vehicle is on the move, surprise people with new ideas and be proud of the result.

Now you know how to assemble a motorcycle. If you follow the suggested instructions, there should be no problems with assembly. Be attentive to details, because they are no less important than the main assembly of the motorcycle.

Detailed assembly is described in the article.

Designing motorcycles is no less exciting than creating any other vehicles. In addition, a motorcycle, which is essentially a naked concept of a self-propelled mechanism, requires greater design sophistication, inventive talent and the instincts of a good mechanic. I present to the readers my ideas for designing homemade motorcycles. I can say that I have some experience in this kind of work: at the “Motosam-90” show-competition, my home-made motorcycle, the eighth in a row, was presented, a photo of which the magazine’s readers could see in the report from the show in No. 2 for 1991 . The photographs presented on these pages show three more motorcycles of my design. I want to tell readers about one of them - the last and most successful.

Over the course of thirteen years, I designed and built twelve two-wheeled vehicles. They were all significantly different from each other. Moreover, two motorcycles were designed using a partial monocoque design, and three were completely frameless, with a monocoque monocoque body. It is precisely this design solution that I prefer today: it seems to me the most reliable and advantageous in terms of strength, weight and ergonomics.

I hope that my design experience can be useful for those who are planning to make a motorcycle.

So what is a regular frame motorcycle? To simplify the answer, we can say that this is a frame, a fuel tank, tool boxes, an air filter housing with an intake noise muffler, an exhaust muffler, a rear fender with a tail light bracket and numbers, a saddle base, a trunk, as well as a kilogram of all kinds of bolts, nuts, bushings , pins, washers and rubber bands, with the help of which all of the above are connected into a single structure.

If you sum up the masses of these components and assemblies, you get a very impressive value. In addition, all this put together forms a far from aesthetically pleasing “skeleton”, which has many secret places where absolutely irremovable dirt will inevitably accumulate - you can only get rid of it by completely disassembling the motorcycle.

A year or two passes - and the tool boxes begin to rattle, cracks creep along the rear fender, the number plate along with the bracket falls off... And if the motorcyclist, God forbid, gets into at least a minor accident or even simply falls? In these cases, the frame bends and dents appear on the tank and tool boxes. Huge lower mufflers cause even more trouble, clinging even to smooth asphalt when cornering and significantly reducing passability on bad roads.

The two-wheeled vehicle, designed according to the “monocoque” design scheme, is free of all these shortcomings. Such a motorcycle is a monoblock welded box-shaped structure that performs the functions of all the parts and assemblies listed above. Interestingly, the spatial box structure is significantly more rigid and durable than the classic frame structure (including duplex frames). The use of a monocoque design in a motorcycle design not only reduces the weight of a two-wheeled vehicle, but also brings the center of gravity of the motorcycle closer to the ground. This happens due to the fact that in this design the tool box and battery compartment are located in the lower part of the body, and a lightweight air filter with an intake noise muffler is located in the upper part, where the fuel tank cap is located on classic motorcycles. The air intake is made above the steering column - in this area the cleanest, dust-free air is. An exhaust noise muffler may also be located inside the monocoque, but reliable thermal insulation from the fuel and seat cushion must be ensured.

1 - rearview mirror, 2 - secret fuel tank plug, 3 - shock absorber compensation chamber, 4 - shock absorber with a stroke of 120 mm, 5 - swing lever, 6 - push lever, 7 - brake rod, 8 - rear part of the body with exhaust muffler (left) and oil tank (right), 9 - rear turn signal, 10 - parking light and brake light (dual), 11 - exhaust pipe (left), 12 - brake disc with a diameter of 300 mm, 13 - chain catcher, 14 - rear wheel sprocket (z=37), 15 - rear wheel suspension pendulum, 16 - drive sprocket (z=15), 17 - foot brake pedal, 18 - drive box lever gears, 19 - winch drum, 20 - muffler - resonator, 21 - winch cable guide bracket, 22 - front brake disc with a diameter of 300 mm.

Rice. 2. Monocoque body layout. The cell size of the scale grid is 100×100 mm.

Pictures 1 and 2 show my enduro motorcycle and its monocoque body with rear suspension and engine protective frame. The weight of the monocoque is only 23 kilograms, and the useful volume of such a body is about 56 liters, of which 41 liters are for fuel tanks (more than that of the Zhiguli!), and the remaining volume of the body is fully used. At the same time, the motorcycle does not look bulky. On the contrary, it has relatively small dimensions - in particular, the base of the car is only 1350 mm (smaller than that of any Izhevsk motorcycle).

It must be said that making a monocoque body is no more difficult than welding a good frame and equipping it with all the attached parts. You just need to strictly adhere to the pre-developed technology so that all the parts fit together well and are convenient to weld.

When drawing the design of the body, take care to ensure a comfortable position for the driver - this is especially important for enduro-type motorcycles - as well as the safety of the motorcyclist’s movements, ease of movement in a sitting position, in a rack and in the drawbar.

After choosing the optimal, in the designer’s opinion, layout solution, you should draw the entire motorcycle in full size - depict a side view, top view, front and rear, and also draw the most characteristic sections. The more detailed the drawing documentation, the easier further work on the manufacture of a two-wheeled vehicle will be.

It is most rational to place the engine directly on the axis of the pendulum. In this case, the reaction from the tension of the drive chain is connected directly to the pendulum. And it is far from small - sometimes it reaches the breaking strength of the chain, that is, almost two tons! It is necessary to mount the powerful and not very well balanced Izh-Planet engine (as well as all cross-country motors) using silent blocks or rubber cushions. You just need to take into account that the chain not only pulls the engine back, but also turns it in a horizontal plane due to the asymmetrical arrangement of the chain.

When creating a monocoque body, it is very convenient to use the volumetric prototyping method. In this case, the body layout is assembled from cardboard blanks, which are connected using strips of paper and glue. In the process of making a model, as a rule, changes occur in the design of the body, since not everything can be provided for in flat drawing projections. Simultaneously with prototyping the body, it is advisable to work out a technological map of its assembly - this will ensure the convenience of welding work. It is necessary to take into account the possible warping of metal workpieces when welding the body with uneven heating. Keep in mind that the parts that hold the swingarm and steering column are welded last. If necessary, they should be adjusted to the body so that on the finished motorcycle the planes of the wheels coincide with the plane of symmetry of the monocoque body.

The finished volumetric model is cut at the gluing points, and the cardboard patterns of the monocoque elements are numbered: it is from these patterns that blanks will be cut from a steel sheet of the appropriate thickness - from 1.2 to 1.5 mm. The easiest way to do this is with a chisel on a massive anvil.

Welding should be carried out in strict accordance with the technological map. To make the seams look neat and strong, the edges of the parts being welded should be slightly bent, as shown in Figure 3.

To ensure sufficient strength of the monocoque body, it is advisable to introduce additional reinforcements, flanges, and stiffeners into its design. For example, the steering column on my motorcycle and the transverse stiffening beam, to which the bracket for the only shock absorber of the rear suspension is welded, are additionally connected by a rectangular steel pipe of 25x40 mm. In addition, it is convenient to place electrical wiring and motorcycle control cables inside this pipe.

The design of the intake silencer significantly affects the engine power and its torque characteristics. The larger its volume, the easier the engine “breathes,” and the less air pulsation in the filter, which means less noise. Experts recommend setting the muffler volume to at least 20 engine displacements. The path from the air filter to the carburetor must be smooth, eliminating turbulence in the air flow, which significantly reduces engine power.

After welding, the monocoque body is checked for leaks - first with water and then with clean gasoline. If there are no leaks, the welding seams are coated from the inside with liquid epoxy glue - it will fill small pores, bind pieces of slag and drops of metal - this is especially important for the intake noise muffler.

The rear suspension is pendulum type, with cantilever wheel mounting. Wheel travel is about 260 mm. The pendulum hinge is on ball bearings and sealed with oil seals. Chain tension is done using an eccentric. The disc brake is mechanically driven.

The front suspension is based on the fork from the CZ-516 cross-country motorcycle. The wheel is for 21-inch tires, the disc brake pad drive is hydraulic.

The soft saddle pad is glued directly to the monocoque body, and the faux leather cover is attached to it with flush screws.

I would like to warn readers who do not have sufficient experience in designing motor vehicles that creating homemade two-wheeled vehicles is a very difficult matter. In this material I tried to talk about my work and those ideas that I consider promising for amateur motorcycle building. However, I would categorically not advise novice motorcycle builders to start creating a powerful machine based on this material. It might be better to start with simpler motorcycles. After all, I was moving towards a monocoque, having created more than a dozen intermediate structures...

Alexey GARAGASHIAN, St. Petersburg

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