Fluorescent lamps are quite common in our time. They are often used to illuminate premises for various purposes, ranging from office to industrial premises. industrial enterprises. Such lamps have become widely used due to many advantages compared to conventional lamps incandescent.

But these lamps have a significant drawback - low reliability. This is due to the fact that one lamp is not enough for the lamp to work, there are auxiliary elements in its design, which also somewhat complicates its operation, in particular its repair. Consider the features of the repair of fluorescent lamps.

In order to find a malfunction of the lamp, you need to know its principle of operation. Structurally, the lamp, in addition to the lamp, has auxiliary elements designed to start and operate the lamp - the so-called ballast.

The starter is a neon lamp with two (rarely one) bimetallic electrodes. When voltage is applied to the fluorescent lamp, a discharge is formed in the starter, which contributes to the closure of the initially open starter electrodes. At the same time, the circuit flows high current, which heats up the gas gap in the bulb of a fluorescent lamp, as well as the bimetallic electrodes of the starter themselves.

At the moment when the starter electrodes open, a voltage surge occurs, which provides the throttle. Under the influence overvoltage the gas gap in the lamp breaks through and it lights up. The inductor is connected in series with the lamp, so the 220 V supply voltage is divided by 110 V into the lamp and the inductor, respectively.

The starter is connected to the lamp in parallel, respectively, when the lamp is on, the lamp voltage is applied to it. This voltage value is not enough to re-close the starter electrodes, that is, it participates in the circuit only at the moment the fluorescent lamp is turned on.

The inductor, in addition to generating an increased voltage pulse, limits the current when the lamp is turned on (when the starter contacts are closed), and also ensures stable discharge burning in the lamp during its operation.

When repairing a fluorescent lamp, you must first remember about safety measures. Before proceeding with the replacement or checking of the elements of the lamp, it is necessary to completely de-energize it and make sure that no electric current is coming to it.

Let's proceed directly to the consideration of the reasons why a fluorescent lamp may not work.

A fluorescent lamp, unlike conventional base lamps, has a large number of contact connections. Therefore, one of the reasons for the inoperability of the lamp may be the lack of contact in one or another part of the lamp.

That is, before concluding that one of the lamp elements is faulty, it is necessary to make sure that the contacts are reliable and, if necessary, solve this problem by tightening the screw connections, as well as cleaning and tightening the plug-in contacts.

In this case, it is necessary to check the reliability of the contact in the cartridge of the idle lamp, the starter, on the throttle clamps, as well as on the terminals to which the supply conductors of the lamp are connected. Checking the contacts can be done visually, but if further troubleshooting of the lamp does not give results, then you should return again to checking the contact connections, but with the tester, making a call to each of the contacts.

If the contacts are in good condition, then the fluorescent lamp itself should be checked for integrity. To do this, remove it from the cartridge and insert it into a known working fluorescent lamp. If the lamp does not light, then it should be replaced. But one should take into account the fact that it could burn out due to a malfunction of the choke, therefore, before putting a new lamp into a non-working lamp, you need to make sure that the choke of the lamp is working.

The next reason for the inoperability of the lamp is a faulty starter. A starter malfunction can be manifested either by the complete inoperability of the lamp or by its characteristic flickering.

If the starter contacts do not close when the lamp is turned on, there will be no signs of lamp operation. Or vice versa, the starter contacts are closed and do not open - in this case, the lamp will flicker, but not light up. If the starter is removed, it will work normally. In both cases, the repair comes down to replacing the starter.

Another reason is a throttle malfunction. A characteristic sign of a choke malfunction may be a partial violation of the integrity of the insulation of its winding, which is manifested by a sharp change in its characteristics (current at the time of starting the lamp and during its operation). Visually, this can be seen from the unstable operation of the lamp after it is turned on. The lamp in this case turns on in the normal mode, but during its operation, flickering and uneven glow are observed that are uncharacteristic for its normal operation.

As mentioned above, the lamp may burn out due to a malfunction of the inductor, namely the presence of an interturn short circuit in it. If, when the lamp burned out, a characteristic burning smell appeared, then, most likely, the inductor was damaged.

When installing a new starter or choke, it is necessary to pay attention to their rated voltage and power, the values ​​of these parameters must correspond to the previously installed elements.

You should also pay special attention to the mains voltage and its stability. Unstable and over / under voltage is the main reason for the failure of the ballast, the burnout of the lamps or the unstable operation of the luminaire. If you do not solve the problem with poor-quality power supply, then the fluorescent lamp will often fail.

Repair of lamps with incandescent lamps

Repair of lamps with incandescent lamps.

Troubleshooting luminaires with incandescent lamps

Maintenance of luminaires with incandescent lamps, as a rule, is carried out simultaneously with the maintenance of electrical wiring. Scope of work for maintenance fixtures:

• removal of dust and dirt from fittings fixtures;
• removal of glasses, electric lamps and their washing;
• replacement of glass with cracks and chips;
• checking the compliance of the power of the installed lamps;
• checking the fastening, condition of hooks and brackets;
• checking the condition of the insulation of wires at the points of their entry into the lamps and at the places of their termination;
• removing the cartridge case, cleaning contacts, tightening loose clamps;
• inspection of the condition of lighting fixtures and replacement of defective parts;
• painting of metal parts of fittings.

All types of work are carried out when the power is turned off.

The termination of lighting is a signal of a malfunction of any lamp. Table and floor lamps are much easier to repair than wall and ceiling lamps.

The burnt out light bulb in the lamp is replaced. With a whole spiral, the lamp is turned over. If after that it does not light up when turned on, the lamp is tried in another lamp. A defect or defects are also found inside the lamp with a whole spiral. For example, the solder of the electrode and base is destroyed. In this case, the lamp must be replaced with a new one.

Incandescent lamps often do not turn out of the cartridge due to the fact that the base is rusted or the center contact is welded. The application of a large force leads to the detachment of the base. In this case, it is necessary to de-energize the power supply by unscrewing the safety plugs or turning off the circuit breakers. Then you need to wrap the flask in several layers with a thick rag so as not to cut your hand if the flask bursts, and try to turn the lamp out. With such an attempt, the lamp either turns out, or the balloon comes off from it, and the base remains in the cartridge. In the latter case, to unscrew the base from the cartridge, you will have to resort to the help of pliers. The edge of the base protruding from the cartridge must be grasped with pliers and, holding the cartridge with your hand, unscrew the base by rotating it counterclockwise with the pliers. In cases where it is not possible to unscrew the base, the cartridge is disassembled.

When replacing a burnt-out halogen lamp (without reflector or with reflector, but without protective glass), never touch the glass bulb with bare hands! The lamp bulb is made of fused quartz, and if you touch the bulb, it will certainly leave a greasy imprint on it. Fat causes quartz to crystallize, causing the bulb to collapse and the lamp to burn out. To prevent this from happening, it is imperative to hold the new lamp (when replacing it) with a napkin or piece of paper.

The absence of light may also be due to poor contact between the central contact of the cartridge and the base. With a narrow non-conductive object - a wooden chip, a plastic rod - the lamellar contact of the cartridge is slightly straightened or folded down ° t of the faience insert. Do not use an awl, screwdriver or pencil with a graphite rod.

The light bulb may also not light if the cartridge malfunctions: the screw (or screws) has ceased to attract wires to the special part on the insert or has rusted. The cartridge needs to be disassembled. This operation, like the previous one, is carried out using, if necessary, additional lighting, so great CAUTION is needed.

First unscrew the skirt of the cartridge. The further success of the work will depend on the length of the wires attached to the insert and placed behind the heel of the cartridge under the lamp body. If the length of the wires allows, then, holding the outer rounded edge, pull out the insert and carefully tighten the screw with a screwdriver with a non-conductive handle. All these operations must be carried out so that the fingers do not touch the metal parts of the insert, and only one screw is screwed with a screwdriver without touching other parts.

Assemble the cartridge in reverse order. It should be noted that the liner "sits" in the heel only after its depressions enter the ledges. If they are not aligned, the cartridge skirt will not screw on.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to replace the wires in the chandelier in the event of a break in one of them in the chandelier rod (which can cause a short circuit and a power outage in the network). First of all, you need to turn off the current in the network, lower the cap and disconnect the wires. It is advisable to mark the corresponding wires with colored threads so that when you reinstall the chandelier, you immediately get the correct wire connection. The damaged section of the wire should be removed by unscrewing the bolt connecting it to the lamp socket. The new wire should be pulled (from top to bottom) through the entire rod and attached to the lamp socket. This action is no different from that described when hanging a new chandelier from the ceiling.

Troubleshooting common problems with incandescent wall lights

Elimination of typical malfunctions of wall lamps with incandescent lamps.

If the lamp is wall lamp does not light up and when you press the switch button again, you should remove the cap. The body and cap are threaded. The body is made of plastic or faience. Usually, the thread in a faience case is of lesser quality than in a plastic one, so when unscrewing the cap, it sometimes jams in the thread. The use of force can cause cracks in the glass, so you should try to turn the cap a little in the direction of twisting. It is better to carry out such manipulations in gloves or mittens, which will save the skin of the palms from cuts.

When unscrewing the cap, the lamp body can be accidentally pulled out of the dowels together with the screws, and it hangs on the wires. And if the cartridge breaks out of the wiring, then this inevitably leads to a short circuit. To exclude this, it is necessary, when starting repairs, first of all, to de-energize the lamp by setting the switch key to the appropriate position.

It is preferable to disassemble the cartridge on a lamp disconnected from the wall. Moreover, the longer the wiring protruding from the wall, the more freedom you can carry out repairs. The screws securing the luminaire body to the wall are not always easy to unscrew, especially if the slot on the screw head is damaged or the blade of the screwdriver does not fit the slot. A rusted screw, dry plugs or dowel make it even more difficult to detach the luminaire. With a spatula of a large screwdriver, pry off the body near the screw and remove it together with the dowel or plug. It is more reliable and easier than turning a screw or sawing it with a hacksaw blade through the gap between the lamp body and the wall. And in order not to damage the wall, which serves as a support for the screwdriver lever, a metal plate is placed under the blade of the blade.

The luminaire may need to be removed from the wall for repair later. To do this, it is better to replace the screws. It is better to fix the lamp with short screws. If the dowels are torn out of the holes, new ones are installed. In the absence of dowels, they are replaced with a plastic tube-insulation removed from the wire core of a suitable section.

In a brick or concrete wall, the dowel will be replaced by a wooden cork. New holes instead of defective ones should not be drilled or punched with a jumper, since the wiring is hidden. Having finished troubleshooting the lamp, return its cap to its place.

Typical malfunctions of luminaires with fluorescent lamps with starters and methods for their elimination

Typical malfunctions of luminaires with fluorescent lamps with starters and ways to eliminate them.

Maintenance of luminaires is similar to luminaires with incandescent lamps (see the Troubleshooting section for luminaires with incandescent lamps).

In luminaires with fluorescent lamps, the connections of wires with lamp sockets and starters are made in the form of screwless clamps - springy plates made of high-quality bronze. Attempting to pull the wire out of such a clamp may break the clamp. To release the wire, insert a thin screwdriver or steel needle into the clamp, which will press the spring and release the wire. In lampholders for fluorescent lamps and starters, the terminal clamps are designed to connect only copper wires.

When replacing defective lamps in fluorescent lamp install new lamps of such power for which the lamp is designed. Installing fluorescent lamps of a different power leads to damage to the control gear and the lamp itself.

When replacing starters and chokes in fixtures with fluorescent lamps, they first check their serviceability and correct selection. Only after that, the defective elements are replaced and the lamp is put into operation.

Fluorescent lamps are removed from the socket with great care so as not to twist the bases and break the lamp. A drop of mercury in a lamp is a strong and dangerous poison.

Fluorescent lamps are a complex device with many structural elements and a large number of contacts. Therefore, malfunctions during the operation of lamps are very diverse.

Fault 1. The lamp does not light up.

Cause. There is no voltage on the lamp holder from the mains side, low mains voltage.

Detection method. Check the presence and magnitude of voltage with an indicator or voltmeter.

Remedy. Check the power supply and ensure normal voltage.

Fault 2. The lamp does not light up. There is no glow at the ends of the lamp.

Cause 1. Poor contact between lamp pins and socket contacts or between starter pins and starter holder contacts.

Detection method. Move the lamp and starter to the sides in their holders.

Remedy. Ensure good contact.

Cause 2: Lamp failure, broken or burnt filaments.

Detection method. Install a known-good lamp.

Remedy. Replace lamp.

Cause 3. Starter malfunction - the starter does not close the filament circuit of the lamp cathodes.

Detection method. There is no glow in the starter.

Reason 4. Malfunction in the electrical circuit of the lamp. Detection method. Check all connections in the circuit. Remedy. Eliminate the found faults. Reason 5. Malfunction of ballast (ballast).

Detection method. If there are no wire breaks, broken contact connections and errors in the circuit, then the ballast is obviously faulty.

Remedy. Replace PRA.

Fault 3. The lamp does not light up. The ends of the lamp glow. Cause. Starter malfunction.

Detection method. Remove the starter, the glow at both ends will stop.

Remedy. Replace starter.

Fault 4. The lamp blinks but does not light up, glows at one end.

Cause. Errors in the scheme; short circuit in the circuit or cartridge, shorting the lamp, short circuit of the terminals of the lamp electrodes.

Detection method 1. The lamp is removed and inserted into the lamp, swapping the ends of the lamp. If the previously non-luminous electrode glows, then the lamp is working.

Remedy 1. Check if there is a short circuit in the cartridge on the side of the non-luminous electrode. If no shorts are found, check the wiring diagram.

Detection method 2. There is no glow at the same end of the lamp.

Solution 2: Replace the lamp.

Fault 5. The lamp does not blink and does not light up, there is a glow at both ends of the electrode.

Cause. Error in the circuit, starter malfunction (breakdown of the capacitor for radio interference pressure or sticking of the starter contacts).

Remedy. Replace starter. Fault 6. The lamp blinks and does not light up.

Reason 6. Faulty starter; errors in the scheme; low network voltage; loss of emission from the lamp electrodes.

Detection method. Check the mains voltage with a voltmeter.

Remedy. Replace starter; replace the lamp, ensure normal mains voltage.

Fault 7. When the lamp is turned on, an orange glow is observed at its ends, after a while the glow disappears and the lamp does not light up. Cause. out of order

Lamp, air has entered the lamp. Detection method is similar to malfunction 6. Remedy. Replace lamp. Fault 8. The lamp turns on and off alternately. Cause. Lamp failure. The detection method is similar to fault 6.

Remedy. Replace bulb, if flashing continues, replace starter.

Fault 9. When the lamp is turned on, the spirals of its electrodes burn out.

Cause. Control gear malfunction (insulation broken or interturn short circuit in the winding), there is a short circuit to the case in the electrical circuit.

Detection method. Conduct a thorough inspection of the electrical circuit; check the insulation of the wiring in relation to the luminaire body.

Remedy. Replace ballast, eliminate short circuit.

Fault 10. The lamp lights up, but after a few hours of operation, blackening of its ends appears.

Reason 1. Short circuit to the lamp body in the electrical circuit. Detection method. Check wiring insulation. Remedy. Eliminate the short on the housing. Cause 2. Ballast malfunction.

Remedy. If the current exceeds normal values, replace the ballast.

Fault 11. The lamp ignites, when it burns, the discharge cord begins to rotate and moving spiral and serpentine stripes appear.

Cause. Lamp defective; strong fluctuations in mains voltage, loose contacts; the lamp covers the magnetic field lines of the stray ballast.

Detection method. Using an ammeter, check the starting and operating current.

Remedy. Replace the lamp, check the mains voltage; check the contact connections; replace the ballast.

Lighting is used by people almost everywhere, as it allows you to optimize the workflow and improve living conditions. An integral attribute of every home is a table lamp, which can have several configurations.

The design of such a system is relatively simple and consists of several components. You can learn more about table lamps on the website http://decorro.com.ua/105-nastolnye-lampy.

Causes of breakdowns

It often happens that table lamps simply stop turning on and working. There are several main causes of these malfunctions:

1. Cord break. This may be indicated by the periodic disappearance of light or its blinking. Very often, the main point of damage is near the fork, as it lends itself to frequent bending.
2. The failure of the switch will not allow the circuit to close, which will cause the absence of light.
3. Breakage of wiring near the cartridge. Very often this occurs due to the burnout of contacts that fall out of the clamps.

Diagnosing this is quite simple, which can be done with a simple visual inspection or using special instruments.

Fixing the lamp

Consider a repair method for a conventional table lamp, which consists of a lampshade, legs and stand.

This process can be divided into several stages:

1. First of all, we check the integrity of the connection in the cartridge. To do this, we pull the corrugation and unscrew the upper head in order to reach the necessary part. When removing the cartridge, inspect it for damage. If the wiring is melted, then it will be visible. You can fix the problem by stripping the cable and attaching it back, as well as completely replacing the electrical conductor on the entire lamp.
2. When the cartridge is intact, then the switch is the cause. It can be reached from inside stands by unscrewing a few screws. There you can also visually inspect possible damage or feel the device using special devices. You can repair the damage with a new twist of the wiring. This must be done in the correct sequence so as not to close the circuit directly.

Be sure to use duct tape to get good connections that won't short out. Very often, the cause of the breakdown is the use of light bulbs with more power than on the device.

It is necessary to carry out work with the lamp disconnected from the mains, observing all safety rules.

How to repair a table lamp can be seen in this video:

How often have you had to deal with such a problem that after replacing a light bulb, a chandelier or lamp stops burning? This can be due to a variety of reasons, and the manufacturer is not always to blame, especially if you purchased equipment from a well-known global brand. Often the cause of the breakdown lies in improper operation, improper installation, power surges in the network.

The most common breakdowns:

• mechanical damage during transportation or installation;
• breakage of wires and failure of the cartridge;
• closure;
• malfunction of switches or control panels.

The most vulnerable spot of any lamp is the cartridge. When we unscrew a burned out light bulb and install a new one, we can inadvertently damage the cartridge itself, as well as the wires that go to the terminals. In addition, the terminals themselves oxidize over time, this can lead to the fact that the light is constantly flashing and crackling is heard. The only way out in such a situation would be to de-energize the room, remove the cartridge, disassemble it and clean the terminals. All cracked or burnt wires must be replaced, otherwise you may soon expect a short circuit.

Sometimes people use too much force to screw in the light bulb, and then it is impossible to remove it from the socket without damaging it. This is also related to oxidation. You can remove such a light bulb only by breaking its flask, and get the remaining base with pliers. To prevent the problem from recurring in the future, try to completely disassemble the cartridge, clean all the terminals. Do not forget that the lamp is very hot, so work with gloves, the chandelier must be de-energized.

If you have wall sconces or that you plug into the outlet, the reason for their failure may be that the plug or the outlet itself is damaged. In this case, you need to check the voltage at the cartridge terminals with a multimeter, you may also have to disassemble the plug or the socket itself.

Power surges and breakdowns are especially dangerous for LED strips, energy-saving or halogen lamps. Modern chandeliers with a control panel may not work due to the fact that the transformer fails. To fix this breakdown yourself, you need, at a minimum, to understand the electrician and be able to use a soldering iron. Due to overloads, thin wires burn out over time and you just need to disassemble the transformer and solder the wires.

If you observe any incomprehensible phenomena: the chandelier sparks, the machine knocks out, the switch beats with current, then you don’t need to try to fix the problem yourself if you are not confident in your abilities. The best solution would be to turn off the light, de-energize the room and call an electrician.

The large size of such lighting fixtures and not very presentable design have become the reason for their use in such facilities as production workshops, shops and offices. In residential buildings, they are not used so massively. are specific in nature and require certain knowledge to perform repairs.

The difficulty lies in the fact that the design contains quite a lot of elements. All these components perform specific functions to start and maintain the discharge of the device in the required operational condition. And an increase in the constituent parts of any design usually reduces the reliability parameters and makes it more vulnerable to failure.

The principle of operation and some features of the device

It is impossible to start preventive measures or troubleshooting without carefully studying all the characteristics and the principle of the workflow. To begin with, let's define the source of light radiation - this is a lamp, which consists of a U-shaped or cylindrical bulb with air removed from it. The inner part is filled with vapors of inert gas and mercury. Incandescent filaments, with pairs of contacts located on them, are placed along the edges of the bulb.

A gas-discharge type lamp with an anti-interference capacitor connected in parallel serves as a starter for starting. Contact closure occurs when voltage is applied. This process occurs due to the appearance of a glow discharge in the space between the electrodes. An important nuance is that at least one of this pair of elements must be bimetallic. The discharge leads to heating of the electrodes, and they close. Everything that happens, if desired, can be seen through the inspection window in the case.

The current flow occurs in the following order - through the series-connected threads, contacts and inductor. The formation of free electrons begins on the threads coated with a special composition. What is happening is called thermionic emission. The elements that appear contribute to the emergence of free charges inside the device, which are able to support the passage of current. The inductor has an inductive reactance that limits the flow of current in the filaments during heating.

The process of the appearance of self-induction EMF in the inductor is carried out after the electrodes have cooled down and opened. The rapid acceleration of electrons and the occurrence of their movement occurs due to the combination of the mains voltage with an impulse high voltage. The ionization of inert gas molecules is a consequence of the process of their collision with the formed electrons. As a result, a very stable discharge is formed, with a current limited by the inductance of the inductor.

The output of the starter from the working state is carried out by shunting it with a lighted lamp. Sometimes there is a situation where the fire did not occur. In such cases, the whole process is repeated cyclically until the moment when a component is launched or fails.
Filtering and eliminating interference during operation is the responsibility of the capacitor in the circuit. It is connected in parallel with the mains terminals.

Fluorescent Lamp Faults and Solutions

Consider some of the most common cases of failure or malfunction of such devices:

1. No ignition after switching on. The reasons in this case may be the following - low mains voltage, wire breakage or insufficient contact, starter failure, electrode displacement. To begin with, we will change the lamp, and if the situation repeats, we replace the starter and measure it on the contacts of the holder. If there is no voltage supply, and eliminate it. Next, the reliability of the contacts is checked in the areas of connection to the holder and the ballast resistance of the supply wires.
2. There is a flashing of the lamp, and the glow is noticeable only from one end. Usually this is a consequence of a short circuit in the terminals of the lamp, holder or wires. Swap the ends and try running. In the absence of a positive result, the defect is most likely in the wiring or holder.
3. A dull glow of orange hue is visible at the ends. It constantly alternates between appearance and disappearance. There is always one option here - air got into the inside. The only way out is to replace the lamp.
4. After normal ignition, darkening begins with final extinction. Most often this is a consequence of problems with ballast resistance. The best solution is to replace this component.
5. There is a cyclic uniform ignition followed by extinction. There are usually two reasons - a malfunction of the starter or the lamp itself.
6. The inclusion is accompanied by burnout of the spiral and blackening of the ends. We check the ballast resistance and the mains voltage. If the voltage parameters are normal, the ballast element will need to be replaced.

Element parameters when replacing

To achieve the desired effect, the nominal characteristics of the elements to be changed must be considered very carefully.

Two options for starters:

• Power range data for luminaires that start with similar lamp parts.
• The design of the circuit is also important - for a pair of lamps or one.

Characteristics of ballast chokes:

• The parameters of the base of the lighting fixture are T8 or T5.
• The need to ensure the launch of two or one lamps.

You need to select an electronic ballast (electronic ballast) according to the following characteristics:

• working diagram used when connecting:
• operating power.

According to the design, electronic ballasts can be in the standard version, and with the arrangement of remote control.