Connecting a lamp with fluorescent lamps. How to make a fluorescent lamp with your own hands

Fluorescent Lamp- this is a sealed tube, inside of which there are gas vapors, which, under the influence of an electric discharge (breakdown), go into an excited state and bombard the phosphor layer applied from the inside to the lamp bulb. This bombardment causes the glow. In order to “pierce” a gaseous medium, which does not conduct electricity well, with a discharge, a primary impulse is required - a strong initial current. After switching on, it is necessary to maintain a “glow discharge” inside the flask, which will ensure the glow of the phosphor layer even with a short-term power outage. Hence both the difficulties and advantages of connection fluorescent lamps, the physics of which is not based on the direct incandescence of a luminous filament.

What lights up in a fluorescent lamp?

Actually a lot of things. A spiral that is a source of excited electrons. The gas, the ionization of which causes the phosphor layer to glow, the gas itself inside the flask (the glow of which we do not see) and the starter, which has a light indication of serviceability.

Let's now see what a fluorescent lamp circuit is:

For a person familiar with the cabal of electrical circuits, everything is obvious. The diode bridge eliminates breakdown on L4 and C1, R1-2 dampen pulse currents on the EN circuit, and an additional diode allows the capacitor to capture excess currents.

This diagram fully explains how to connect a fluorescent lamp, and, by the way, how to save electricity. Please note that by eliminating Z and D7, we will get a significant reduction in the starting current, which will save on electricity!

Unclear? Fine. Let's make things a little easier

For household purposes this is enough. But connecting fluorescent lamps has a peculiarity. It is worth keeping in mind that this picture is of connecting one lamp. If we connect several lamps with our own hands, then we need to take into account that serial connection is simpler, more reliable and more economical in terms of energy consumption. This is directly related to the title of this part of the article - what shines. Pulse starter, transmitted sequentially, makes it easier to start each subsequent lamp. In other words, the charge spent on starting the first lamp is passed on, reducing the cost of launching the second and so on.

And it burns in the lamp phosphor, which, after being established in the flask necessary conditions“smolders” with very little electricity consumption. Hence the energy-saving properties of these lamps, and all their derivatives - such as compact ones, which, in fact, remained luminescent.

Connection options for fluorescent lamps

Strictly speaking, there are few options for choosing, installing and connecting a fluorescent lamp. These parameters are set by the circuit of the fluorescent lamp, as well as the layout of the lighting device. Please note that in this article we are not considering the characteristics; we are more interested in the question of how to connect a fluorescent lamp correctly. Based on this task, we mean that:

• The load on the electrical wiring should be minimal;
• Operating conditions require just such a lamp (more on this below);
• The network parameters are stable (smooth adjustment with dimmers is impossible, and voltage drops are a constant replacement for burnt-out fluorescent lamps);
• The requirements for room lighting do not allow the use of incandescent lamps, or this is a direct saving on electricity;
• Each lamp is a separate device, equipped with a damping choke, ballast and starter, and it is impossible to use a powerful choke for 10 lamps even on an industrial scale.

It follows from this that each fluorescent lamp that we use in everyday life must precisely occupy its place. Moreover, unlike others, this place is equipped with:

• A special base (with the exception of energy-saving lamps adapted to screw bases);
• A special “silencer” of light (lampshade). As a rule, frosted glass, which allows you to remove the “flicker” effect;
• Access. When replacing fluorescent lamps and device elements (usually starters) is done quickly, without much labor.

The connection process itself should look like this. We take the phase on which we hang the lamp contact. We connect the neutral wire to the inductor, from which we close the second contact in the lamp. When voltage is applied, the lamp will “blink” approximately three to four times per minute. This means that the breakdown current is sufficient.

To start the lamp smoothly, you need a starter, also known as ballast, which is also a key element of the Starting Control Equipment (BG). Today, electronic ballasts and electronic ballasts are more applicable. The main task of ballast is to balance the load. In other words, do not allow the choke to “spit charge,” which leads to flashes rather than a quiet lamp burning. Look at the diagram again:

The ballast hangs above the lamp contacts, balancing the discharges inside the bulb. The name is not accidental; the starter not only starts a continuous discharge inside the lamp, but also does not allow this discharge to go beyond the limits inside the bulb. There are practically no cases of explosions of fluorescent lamps, but the “black tube” is the rule rather than the exception. This is the same case when the phosphor burned out due to overdischarge. This usually happens when the starter fails after the lamp has turned on.

We connect the fluorescent lamps in series, making sure that both the choke and the starter work for their own lamp. When connecting a finished lamp (which has many lamps), make sure that there are as many starters as there are lamps, otherwise the failure of one starter can turn off the entire lighting device.

We understand that this type of lighting is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes and is safe as a source of fire (except), therefore in aquariums no other lamps are used, and there the humidity in the lamp area is almost 100%.

We also remember that LL is source of poison and infection. Therefore, we will not install them where they can be physically destroyed. What else remains to be learned about fluorescent lamps that people prefer not to write about online?

Some features of fluorescent lamps

Let's start with the “death” of such a lamp, which will require a special approach to the “funeral”. Type in search " demercurization recycling mercury my city" Find the nearest location that provides this service. There are many such points, one or two will definitely be nearby. This is where you need to hand over the burnt-out LL, and not throw it in the trash container. Energy-saving lamps, mercury lamps, burnt-out LEDs and batteries should also be taken there. Unless, of course, you are a person who is not indifferent to the pleasure of walking around your home.

This is one of the disadvantages that replacing fluorescent lamps causes, but it is not the most difficult. The situation is much more complicated when, after many years of use, the heel of the lamp has become “stuck” to the base. Yes, LLs last for many years, and it often happens that the base is simply overgrown with deposits (condensation, dust, etc.), which makes it impossible to remove the lamp without destroying the bulb. Our recommendation is to invite specialists. You must understand that inside the flask there are vapors of mercury and other gases that are heavier than air and which cannot be removed by ventilation.

A voltage drop will damage approximately 30% of the LL. This must be kept in mind when arranging lighting in a country house, where voltage drops are not the exception, but rather the rule. The remaining 70% of the lamps will not fail. They will simply work with less efficiency.

If you connect the LL to the network without observing the “phase - neutral wire” principle, then every second lamp will flicker. Even with a serial connection. This is because the fluorescent lamp circuit contains a capacitor that will dump excess charge if the balances are connected incorrectly.

Even if you follow any connection diagrams for fluorescent lamps, they will still flicker and “blink”. It's not because we haven't figured out how to do it right. This is the physics of electrical breakdown, which cannot be permanent. It “sparks”, so the lamp sparks. The less the ballast (capacitor) works, the better it maintains the “breakdown” level, and the less flickering the lamp is.

Has the lamp begun to flicker noticeably? First, replace it with another lamp that does not blink. Check the voltage in the network, if everything is in order, replace the starter. If the blinking does not disappear, replace the entire electronic ballast.

And do not forget to remove the lamp from time to time and clean the contacts with sandpaper; this is the Achilles heel of these lamps - oxidation of the contacts, which significantly affects its performance.

In conclusion, I would like to note that, despite all their shortcomings, LLs have many advantages, from long service life and the correct spectrum, to safety and minimal load on the apartment’s electrical wiring. Therefore, despite the conquest of the lighting market, it is too early to write off fluorescent lamps as scrap. It is more useful to learn to use them competently and appropriately.

Thanks to economical power consumption, safety and high service life, LEDs are now confidently replacing many traditional light sources. In particular, T8-type fluorescent lamps have begun to be replaced everywhere with LED analogues.

Often it is not necessary to replace the entire lamp, but to simply install LED lamps in existing ones. And to make this process as simple as possible, manufacturers of LED lamps make them with the same base (G13), and the dimensions completely match the dimensions of fluorescent lamps (D=26mm L=600mm / 900mm / 1200mm / 1500mm / 2400mm). All that remains is to modernize it a little electrical diagram and you can install LED tubes.

You can see the entire range of these products in the section LED bulbs g13.

Let's take a closer look at the features of installing T8 LED tubes (lamps) in luminaires for fluorescent lamps.

Depending on the type of LED lamp, there are two options for installing lamps:

• With connection for AC 220V lamps (suitable for any original ballast).
• With connection of AC 110V lamps (suitable only for lamps with electronic ballasts).

Note!

1. When installing several lamps in one luminaire, use parallel connection. Serial connection is not allowed, because this leads to voltage surges and damage to the lamp driver.
2. Replacement work must be carried out by qualified personnel in accordance with safety standards and requirements.

1. Connecting lamps to AC 220V :
The first option requires direct power supply of the lamps from a 50 Hz 220 V mains. In this case, you must first remove all elements of the ballasts: the electronic unit or elements of electromagnetic ballasts (starter, throttle, etc.). The power consumption of the lamp will be the sum of the total power of the LED lamps.
Procedure:

1. Remove fluorescent lamps.
2. Remove the old electronic circuit: a) remove the electronic control gear unit; b) remove the starters and remove the ballast from electrical circuit, disconnect the capacitor, if any.
3. Insert LED bulbs.
4. Turn on the power.

Connection diagram for direct 220V LED lamp

After removing the ballasts, the lamps should look something like the photo below (the lamp was converted into two lamps 1200 mm long). Use terminals to connect contacts.

Fluorescent lamp type Arctica 2x36 1200mm disassembled from the back side after removing all the ballast elements for connecting 220V LED lamps.

2. Connecting lamps to AC 110V :

The second option implies that the electromagnetic ballast remains in the circuit, only the starter is removed, such LED lamps are designed to supply a voltage of 110 V. With this connection, the power consumption of the lamp is the sum of the total power of the LED lamps and the power consumed by the remaining ballast. In this option, more electricity will be consumed than in the first, which means the saving effect will be less. In addition, it is necessary to first determine exactly what type of ballast is installed in the luminaires.

Procedure:

1. De-energize the lamp to avoid electric shock.
2. Remove fluorescent lamps.
3. Remove the starters, leave the ballast (or replace the starters with special ones for LED lamps).
4. Insert LED Bulbs
5. Turn on the power.

Swivel base. What else you should pay attention to:

Lamps have sockets installed in different ways: horizontally, vertically, and sometimes at an angle. Since fluorescent lamps shine 360°, it does not matter for them how to install the lamp in the socket. But LED lamps have a directional luminous flux, so you should pay attention to the location of the slot for the socket in the lamp base, otherwise it may turn out that the LED lamp shines sideways rather than downwards. The most universal in this case is the swivel base: it fits any lamps.

LED lamp sockets: a) non-rotating b) rotating.

We hope that our instructions helped you choose and connect LED lamps correctly, and now you take full advantage of all the advantages of modern LED lighting.

Today there is a tendency towards self-production for various home devices, including lighting fixtures. This allows you to give a second life to old household items, and also save a lot on the purchase of new lamps. Today we will talk about making a fluorescent lamp with your own hands.

Anyone with even a minimal understanding of the basics of electrical engineering can make such a lighting device or repair a faulty lamp. Our article will help you with this.

A little about the lamp

Light source

A fluorescent lamp is a product in which a fluorescent lamp acts as a light source. The operating principle of such a light source is based on the transmission of voltage using mercury vapor. Under the influence of an electric charge, this substance produces a bright glow, due to which the lamp has excellent light output.

Note! Such lamps are produced by manufacturers with different emission spectrums. This allows you to install lighting of the most comfortable spectrum.

This lamp is considered one of the most common models in office, municipal and public institutions. But besides this, it is also quite widely used in private houses and apartments. The fluorescent light source has gained popularity due to its efficiency and bright glow.
At the same time, the principle of organizing a lighting device is quite simple. Therefore, many today carry out repairs and assembly with their own hands.

What you need to know

All lamps that include a fluorescent light source are characterized by cylindrical and rectangular shapes. They are narrow and light weight, so they can be installed in various places in the house.

Note! Such lamps can be connected both to the mains (220 (230) V) and to be powered by a battery. The latest models are very relevant for country houses, garages and warehouses.

In addition, this type of lamps can be of different modifications:

• stationary. This group includes built-in, surface-mounted and ceiling lamps;
• mobile or portable. This includes pendant lighting fixtures that can be moved from one place to another or simply placed on the floor, table or shelf.

Lamp options

Making both options with your own hands is quite simple. If you understand the device a little and know how to do everything, then even repairing such a lamp will not be too difficult for you. And our article will try to help you with this.

How and from what to make

Most often, do-it-yourself fluorescent lamps are used to illuminate aquariums. Therefore, let's look at the assembly process using this example.
To operate such lamps, a rather cumbersome electronics system is required. But it can be replaced with a throttleless circuit, which will take up significantly less space. But it will be less reliable than the first option and the device may soon need to be repaired.
So, the first rule of assembly is that such an aquarium lamp must be made so that it completely covers the upper part of the aquarium.

Approximate view

To make a fluorescent lighting fixture for an aquarium with your own hands, you will need:

• plexiglass;
• fluorescent lamps;
• glue;
• sealant;
• insulating tape;
• wire with timer and plug;
• plastic for the frame.

Let's get started

You can make such a lighting device with your own hands of any design. But it is better to choose an option with a removable top cover than to give preference to a monolithic design. So, in any case, it will be more convenient to carry out repairs.
Here the manufacturing process involves the following steps:

• We make a frame around the perimeter. It is better to make it two-layer. The top layer will be decorative;
• We assemble the electrical system of the lamp according to the diagram;

Assembly diagram

• make sure that all contacts are properly insulated. In a situation with close water, this is vitally important. To do this, sealed tips should be placed on the ends of the lamps;

Note! Sealed tips can be made from available materials.

• we attach the entire electrical circuit to the plastic cover of the lamp;
• Next, using glue, fix a plexiglass rectangle on the bottom side of the device;
• We put a plastic cover on top on which fluorescent lamps are installed. The cover should be easy to remove so that the device can be repaired.

Almost finished product

If the cover is black, then it must be covered with white reflective film. For white plastic such manipulations are not carried out.
Where the lamp connects to the aquarium, it is necessary to apply sealant to prevent condensation from penetrating into the lighting fixture. But before applying the sealant, do not forget to degrease the glass.

Second option

In the second case, we will use a base for the lamp made of electronic ballasts (electronic ballasts). This DIY product is perfect for technical or utility rooms.
In this situation you will need:

• frame. It can be made from scrap materials (just do not take flammable products);
• electronic throttle or electronic ballast. It's better to use the second option;
• G13 cartridges. They are taken at the rate of two sockets per lamp;
• stranded copper wires with a cross section of 0.2-0.5 sq. mm. Flexible (multi-wire) ones with tinned ends are also suitable;
• screws and nuts for installing all parts on the body.

We make the lamp as follows:

• install the cartridges at the required distance from each other;
• attach electronic ballasts. Since this element will heat up during operation, we position it in such a way that it is affected by a minimum of third-party heating;
• we connect the cartridges with electronic ballasts using wires according to the diagram;

Connection diagram

• To connect the cartridge, you need to remove the insulation from its wire. It is necessary to remove approximately 1 cm;
• after this, the wire free of insulation must be inserted into the hole until it stops;

Note! According to the specifics of the selected cartridge, it is necessary to select the wire cross-section. It is better to use solid wires.

• the wires just need to be inserted into the sockets, and they are clamped by the leaf spring holders inside;
• We insulate all contacts between the wires well;
• We place all the elements inside the case and cover it with a protective cover on top. Despite the fact that this is not a mandatory procedure for low pressure lamps, protection of the device and its contents is still necessary. Otherwise, the lamps may be damaged by mechanical shock and mercury vapor may escape, which is very toxic to the human body;
• For better sealing, you can apply additional sealant along the entire length of the body. But this will complicate the process of repairing and replacing failed lamp parts in the future.

Ready-made device

Connecting such a lighting device will go to a 220V power supply. This design allows you to place the lamps on the wall or ceiling. However, repairs for such products will be somewhat difficult due to the method of mounting the device.
As practice shows, self-assembled fluorescent lamps using this scheme work well and for a long time. But for this it is necessary that the temperature environment was in the range from -10 to +30°C.
To summarize, we can conclude that the process of self-assembling a luminescent model lighting fixture is not that complicated. The main thing here is to follow the connection diagram for all components of the electrical circuit and clearly follow the sequence of manipulations.

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