Fluorescent lamps are quite common these days. They are often used to illuminate premises for various purposes, from offices to industrial premises. industrial enterprises. Such lamps have become widely used due to many advantages compared to ordinary lamps incandescent

But these lamps have a significant drawback - low reliability. This is due to the fact that one lamp is not enough to operate the lamp; its design contains auxiliary elements, which also somewhat complicates its operation, in particular its repair. Let's consider the features of repairing fluorescent lamps.

In order to find a lamp malfunction, you need to know its operating principle. Structurally, the lamp, in addition to the lamp, has auxiliary elements designed to start and operate the lamp - the so-called ballasts (ballasts).

The starter is a neon lamp with two (less often one) bimetallic electrodes. When voltage is applied to the fluorescent lamp, a discharge is formed in the starter, which contributes to the short circuit of the initially open electrodes of the starter. At the same time, the circuit flows high current, which heats the gas gap in the bulb of the fluorescent lamp, as well as the bimetallic electrodes of the starter themselves.

At the moment when the starter electrodes open, a voltage surge occurs, which is provided by the throttle. Under the influence high voltage the gas gap in the lamp breaks through and it lights up. The inductor is connected in series with the lamp, so the 220 V supply voltage is divided into 110 V for the lamp and inductor, respectively.

The starter is connected to the lamp in parallel; therefore, when the lamp is operating, lamp voltage is supplied to it. This voltage value is not enough to re-close the starter electrodes, that is, it participates in the circuit only when the fluorescent lamp is turned on.

The choke, in addition to generating an increased voltage pulse, limits the current when the lamp is turned on (when the starter contacts are closed), and also ensures stable burning of the discharge in the lamp during its operation.

When repairing a fluorescent lamp, you must first remember safety measures. Before you begin replacing or checking the elements of the lamp, you must completely de-energize it and make sure that no electric current is reaching it.

Let's move on directly to considering the reasons why a fluorescent lamp may not work.

A fluorescent lamp, unlike conventional base lamps, has a large number of contact connections. Therefore, one of the reasons for the inoperability of the lamp may be the lack of contact in one or another part of the lamp.

That is, before concluding that one of the elements of the lamp is faulty, you need to make sure that the contacts are reliable and, if necessary, solve this problem by tightening the screw connections, as well as stripping and tightening the plug-in contacts.

In this case, it is necessary to check the reliability of the contact in the socket of the non-working lamp, the starter, at the throttle terminals, as well as at the terminals to which the supply conductors of the lamp are connected. Contacts can be checked visually, but if further troubleshooting of the lamp does not produce results, then you should return to checking the contact connections again, but with a tester, checking each of the contacts.

If the contacts are in normal condition, then the fluorescent lamp itself should be checked for integrity. To do this, remove it from the socket and insert it into a known working fluorescent lamp. If the lamp does not light, it should be replaced. But you should take into account the fact that it could burn out due to a malfunction of the choke, so before installing a new lamp in a non-working lamp, you need to make sure that the choke of the lamp is working.

The next reason for the lamp to not work is a faulty starter. A starter malfunction can be manifested either by complete inoperability of the lamp or by its characteristic flickering.

If the starter contacts do not close when the lamp is turned on, there will be no signs of lamp operation. Or, on the contrary, the starter contacts are closed and do not open - in this case, the lamp will flicker but not light up. If the starter is removed, it will work normally. In both cases, the repair boils down to replacing the starter.

Another reason is a malfunction of the throttle. A characteristic sign of a malfunction of the inductor may be a partial violation of the integrity of the insulation of its winding, which is manifested by a sharp change in its characteristics (current at the moment of starting the lamp and during its operation). This can be seen visually by the unstable operation of the lamp after it is turned on. In this case, the lamp turns on in normal mode, but during its operation flickering and uneven glow are observed that are uncharacteristic of its normal operation.

As mentioned above, the lamp may burn out due to a malfunction of the inductor, namely the presence of an interturn short circuit in it. If a characteristic burning smell appears when the lamp burns out, then most likely the inductor is damaged.

When installing a new starter or choke, you must pay attention to their rated voltage and power; the values ​​of these parameters must correspond to the previously installed elements.

You should also pay special attention to the network voltage and its stability. Unstable and high/low voltage is the main cause of ballast failure, lamp burnout or unstable operation of the luminaire. If the problem with poor-quality power supply is not solved, the fluorescent lamp will often fail.

Repair of lamps with incandescent lamps

Repair of lamps with incandescent lamps.

Troubleshooting incandescent lamps

Maintenance of lamps with incandescent lamps is usually carried out simultaneously with maintenance of electrical wiring. Scope of work for maintenance lamps:

• removing dust and dirt from fixtures;
• removing glass, electric lamps and washing them;
• replacement of glass with cracks and chips;
• checking the compliance of the power of installed lamps;
• checking the fastening, condition of hooks and brackets;
• checking the condition of the insulation of wires at the places where they enter the lamps and at the places where they are terminated;
• removing the cartridge body, cleaning contacts, tightening loose clamps;
• inspection of the condition of lighting fixtures and replacement of faulty parts;
• painting metal parts of fittings.

All types of work are carried out when the voltage is turned off.

Stopping lighting is a signal of a malfunction of any lamp. Table and floor lamps are much easier to repair than wall and ceiling lamps.

The burnt-out light bulb in the lamp is replaced. When the spiral is intact, the lamp is adjusted. If after this it does not light up when turned on, the lamp is tried in another lamp. A defect or defects can also be found inside the lamp even if the coil is intact. For example, the solder of the electrode and base is destroyed. In this case, the lamp must be replaced with a new one.

Incandescent lamps often do not turn out of the socket because the base is rusty or the central contact is welded. The use of great force leads to the detachment of the base. In this case, it is necessary to turn off the power supply by unscrewing the safety plugs or turning off the circuit breakers. Then you need to wrap the bulb in several layers with a thick rag so as not to cut your hand if the bulb bursts, and try to unscrew the lamp. When such an attempt is made, the lamp is either unscrewed or its cylinder is torn off, and the base remains in the socket. In the latter case, you will have to resort to pliers to unscrew the base from the cartridge. The edge of the base protruding from the cartridge must be grabbed with pliers and, holding the cartridge with your hand, unscrew the base, rotating it counterclockwise with the pliers. In cases where it is not possible to unscrew the base, the cartridge is disassembled.

When replacing a burnt-out halogen lamp (without a reflector or with a reflector, but without protective glass), under no circumstances should you touch the glass bulb with your bare hands! The bulb of the lamp is made of fused quartz, and if you touch the bulb, a greasy imprint will certainly remain on it. The fat causes the quartz to crystallize, causing the bulb to collapse and the lamp to burn out. To prevent this from happening, be sure to hold the new lamp (when replacing) with a napkin or piece of paper.

The lack of light may also be due to poor contact between the central contact of the socket and the base. Using a narrow non-conductive object - a wooden sliver, a plastic rod - the plate contact of the cartridge is slightly straightened or bent away from the earthenware liner. Do not use an awl, screwdriver or pencil with a graphite rod.

The light bulb may also not light if the socket is faulty: the screw (or screws) have stopped attracting the wires to the special part on the insert or have rusted. It is necessary to disassemble the cartridge. This operation, like the previous one, is performed using additional lighting if necessary, so great CAUTION is required.

First, unscrew the cartridge skirt. The further success of the work will depend on the length of the wires attached to the liner and placed behind the heel of the socket under the lamp body. If the length of the wires allows, then, holding the outer rounded edge, pull out the liner and carefully tighten the screw using a screwdriver with a non-conductive handle. All these operations must be carried out so that your fingers do not touch the metal parts of the liner, and only one screw is tightened with a screwdriver, without touching other parts.

Reassemble the cartridge in reverse order. Please note that the liner will “sit” in the heel only after its depressions enter the protrusions. If they are not aligned, the cartridge skirt will not screw on.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to replace the wires in a chandelier if one of them breaks in the chandelier rod (which can cause a short circuit and cut off the current in the network). First of all, you need to turn off the current in the network, lower the cap and disconnect the wires. It is advisable to mark the corresponding wires with colored threads so that when you reinstall the chandelier, you can immediately obtain the correct connection of the wires. The damaged section of the wire should be removed by unscrewing the bolt connecting it to the lamp socket. The new wire should be pulled (from top to bottom) through the entire rod and connected to the lamp socket. This action is no different from that described when hanging a new chandelier from the ceiling.

Elimination of typical malfunctions of wall lamps with incandescent lamps

Elimination of typical malfunctions of wall lamps with incandescent lamps.

If the lamp is in wall lamp does not light up and when you press the switch button again, you must remove the cap. The body and cap are connected by thread. The body is made of plastic or earthenware. Typically, the threads in a faience case are made of less quality than in a plastic one, so when unscrewing, the cap sometimes gets stuck in the thread. Using force can cause cracks in the glass, so you should try to turn the cap a little in the direction of twist. It is better to carry out such manipulations with gloves or mittens, which will protect the skin of your palms from cuts.

When unscrewing the cap, the lamp body can be accidentally pulled out together with the screws from the dowels, and it hangs on the wires. And if the cartridge breaks out of the wiring, this inevitably leads to a short circuit. To prevent this from happening, when starting repairs, you must first turn off the power to the lamp by setting the switch key to the appropriate position.

It is preferable to disassemble the socket with the lamp disconnected from the wall. Moreover, the longer the wiring protruding from the wall, the more freedom you can carry out repairs. The screws that secure the lamp body to the wall do not always come out easily, especially if the slot on the screw head is damaged or the screwdriver blade does not match the slot. A rusted screw, dry plugs or dowel make it even more difficult to remove the lamp. Using a large screwdriver, pry the housing near the screw and remove it along with the dowel or plug. This is safer and easier than turning out a screw or sawing it with a hacksaw blade through the gap between the lamp body and the wall. And in order not to damage the wall, which serves as a support for the screwdriver lever, a metal plate is placed under the blade of the spatula.

The lamp may have to be removed from the wall for repairs in the future. To do this, it is better to replace the screws. It is better to secure the lamp with short screws. If the dowels are torn out of the holes, install new ones. If there are no dowels, they are replaced with a plastic insulating tube removed from a wire core of a suitable cross-section.

In a brick or concrete wall, the dowel will be replaced by a wooden plug. It is not worth drilling new holes instead of defective ones or punching them with a jumper, since the wiring is hidden. Having finished troubleshooting the lamp, return its cap to its place.

Typical malfunctions of lamps with fluorescent lamps with starters and ways to eliminate them

Typical malfunctions of lamps with fluorescent lamps with starters and ways to eliminate them.

Maintenance of lamps is similar to lamps with incandescent lamps (see section “Troubleshooting lamps with incandescent lamps”).

In luminaires with fluorescent lamps, connections of wires to lamp holders and starters are made in the form of screwless clamps - spring plates made of high-quality bronze. Trying to pull the wire out of such a clamp may cause the clamp to break. To release the wire, insert a thin screwdriver or a steel knitting needle into the clamp, which will press the spring and release the wire. In sockets for fluorescent lamps and starters, the contact clamps are designed to connect only copper wires.

When replacing faulty lamps in fluorescent lamp install new lamps of the same power for which the lamp is designed. Installing fluorescent lamps of a different power leads to damage to the ballasts and the lamp itself.

When replacing starters and chokes in luminaires with fluorescent lamps, first check their serviceability and correct selection. Only after this the faulty elements are replaced and the lamp is put into operation.

Fluorescent lamps are removed from the socket with great care so as not to twist the bases and break the lamp. A drop of mercury in a lamp is a strong and dangerous poison.

Fluorescent lamps are a complex device with many structural elements and a large number of contacts. Therefore, problems with the operation of lamps can be very diverse.

Malfunction 1. The lamp does not light up.

Cause. There is no voltage on the lamp socket on the mains side, the mains voltage is low.

Detection method. Check the presence and magnitude of voltage with an indicator or voltmeter.

Remedy. Check the power supply and ensure normal voltage.

Malfunction 2. The lamp does not light up. There is no glow at the ends of the lamp.

Cause 1. Poor contact between the lamp pins and the socket contacts or between the starter pins and the starter holder contacts.

Detection method. Move the lamp and starter in their holders to the sides.

Remedy. Ensure good contact.

Reason 2. Lamp malfunction, broken or burnt filaments.

Detection method. Install a known-good lamp.

Remedy. Replace the lamp.

Reason 3. Starter malfunction - the starter does not close the filament circuit of the lamp cathodes.

Detection method. There is no glow in the starter.

Reason 4. Malfunction in electrical diagram lamp Detection method. Check all connections in the diagram. Remedy. Eliminate detected faults. Reason 5. Malfunction of ballasts (ballast control equipment).

Detection method. If no broken wires, broken contact connections or errors in the circuit are detected, then the ballast is obviously faulty.

Remedy. Replace ballast.

Malfunction 3. The lamp does not light up. The ends of the lamp glow. Cause. Starter malfunction.

Detection method. Remove the starter and the glow at both ends will stop.

Remedy. Replace starter.

Malfunction 4. The lamp blinks, but does not light up, it glows at one end.

Cause. Errors in the circuit; a short circuit in the circuit or socket that short-circuits the lamp, short-circuiting the terminals of the lamp electrodes.

Detection method 1. The lamp is removed and inserted into the lamp, exchanging the ends of the lamp. If the previously non-luminous electrode glows, then the lamp is working.

Remedy 1. Check if there is a short circuit in the cartridge on the side of the non-luminous electrode. If no short circuit is detected, check the wiring diagram.

Detection method 2: There is no light at the same end of the lamp.

Remedy 2. Replace the lamp.

Malfunction 5. The lamp does not blink or light up; there is a glow at both ends of the electrode.

Cause. Error in the circuit, starter malfunction (breakdown of the capacitor for radio interference pressure or sticking of the starter contacts).

Remedy. Replace starter. Malfunction 6. The lamp blinks and does not light up.

Cause 6. Starter is faulty; errors in the circuit; low mains voltage; loss of emission from lamp electrodes.

Detection method. Check the network voltage with a voltmeter.

Remedy. Replace starter; replace the lamp, ensure normal mains voltage.

Malfunction 7. When the lamp is turned on, an orange glow is observed at its ends, after a while the glow disappears and the lamp does not light up. Cause. Faulty

Lamp, air has entered the lamp. The detection method is the same as fault 6. Remedy. Replace the lamp. Malfunction 8. The lamp alternately lights up and goes out. Cause. Lamp failure. The detection method is the same as fault 6.

Remedy. Replace the lamp; if the blinking continues, replace the starter.

Malfunction 9. When the lamp is turned on, the spirals of its electrodes burn out.

Cause. The ballast is malfunctioning (the insulation or turn-to-turn short circuit in the winding is broken), there is a short circuit to the housing in the electrical circuit.

Detection method. Carry out a thorough inspection of the electrical circuit; check the insulation of the wiring in relation to the luminaire body.

Remedy. Replace the ballast, eliminate the short circuit.

Malfunction 10. The lamp lights up, but after a few hours of operation, blackening of its ends appears.

Reason 1. Short circuit to the lamp body in the electrical circuit. Detection method. Check the wiring insulation. Remedy. Eliminate short circuit to the housing. Reason 2. Ballast malfunction.

Remedy. If the current exceeds normal values, replace the ballast.

Malfunction 11. The lamp lights up, when it burns, the discharge cord begins to rotate and moving spiral and serpentine stripes appear.

Cause. The lamp is faulty; strong fluctuations in network voltage, loose contacts; the lamp covers the magnetic field lines of the ballast scattering.

Detection method. Use an ammeter to check the magnitude of the starting and operating current.

Remedy. Replace the lamp, check the network voltage; check contact connections; replace ballasts.

Lighting is used by people almost everywhere, as it allows them to optimize the work process and improve living conditions. An integral attribute of every home is a table lamp, which can have several configurations.

The design of such a system is relatively simple and consists of several components. You can learn more about table lamps on the website http://decorro.com.ua/105-nastolnye-lampy.

Causes of breakdowns

It often happens that table lamps simply stop turning on and working. There are several main reasons for these malfunctions:

1. Broken cord. This may be indicated by periodic loss of light or blinking. Very often the main place of damage is near the fork, as it is susceptible to frequent bending.
2. Failure of the switch will not allow the circuit to close, which will cause the absence of light.
3. Broken wiring near the socket. Very often this occurs due to burnout of contacts that fall out of the clamps.

Diagnosing this is quite simple, which can be done with a routine visual inspection or using special instruments.

Repairing the lamp

Let's consider a method for repairing an ordinary table lamp, which consists of a lampshade, a leg and a stand.

This process can be divided into several stages:

1. First of all, we check the integrity of the connection in the cartridge. To do this, pull back the corrugation and unscrew the top head to reach the required part. When removing the cartridge, you should inspect it for damage. If the wiring has melted, it will be visible. The problem can be corrected by stripping the cable and fastening it back, as well as completely replacing the electrical conductor on the entire lamp.
2. When the cartridge is intact, then the cause is the switch. You can reach it from inside stands by unscrewing a few screws. There you can also visually inspect possible damage or feel the device using special devices. The damage can be repaired by twisting the wiring again. This must be done in the correct sequence so as not to directly short-circuit the circuit.

Be sure to use electrical tape to ensure good connections that won't short out. Very often the cause of breakdown is the use of light bulbs with a higher power than the one on the device.

Work must be carried out with the lamp disconnected from the mains, observing all safety rules.

You can see how to repair a table lamp in this video:

How often have you encountered such a problem that after replacing a light bulb, a chandelier or lamp stops burning? This can be due to a variety of reasons, and the manufacturer is not always to blame, especially if you purchased equipment from a well-known global brand. Often the cause of a breakdown lies in improper operation, improper installation, or power surges in the network.

The most common breakdowns:

• mechanical damage during transportation or installation;
• wire breakage and cartridge failure;
• short circuit;
• malfunction of switches or control panels.

The most vulnerable point of any lamp is the socket. When we unscrew a burnt-out light bulb and install a new one, we can inadvertently damage the socket itself, as well as the wires that go to the terminals. In addition, the terminals themselves oxidize over time, which can cause the light to constantly flicker and make a cracking noise. The only way out in such a situation is to de-energize the room, remove the cartridge, disassemble it and clean the terminals. All cracked or burnt wires must be replaced, otherwise you may soon experience a short circuit.

Sometimes people use too much force when screwing in a light bulb, and then it is impossible to remove it from the socket without damaging it. This is also due to oxidation. You can remove such a light bulb only by breaking its bulb, and remove the remaining base using pliers. To prevent the problem from recurring in the future, try completely disassembling the cartridge and cleaning all the terminals. Do not forget that the lamp gets very hot, so wear gloves; the chandelier must be de-energized.

If you have wall sconces or that you plug into an outlet, the reason for their failure may be that the plug or the outlet itself is damaged. In this case, you need to check the voltage at the cartridge terminals with a multimeter; you may also have to disassemble the plug or the socket itself.

Voltage surges and breakdowns are especially dangerous for LED strips, energy-saving or halogen lamps. Modern chandeliers with a remote control may not work due to the fact that the transformer fails. To fix this breakdown yourself, you need, at a minimum, to understand electrical engineering and be able to use a soldering iron. Due to overloads, thin wires burn out over time and you just need to disassemble the transformer and solder the wires.

If you observe any incomprehensible phenomena: a chandelier sparks, a machine knocks out, a switch is electrocuted, then you do not need to try to fix the problem yourself if you are not confident in your abilities. The best solution would be to turn off the lights, de-energize the room and call an electrician.

The large size of such lighting devices and not very presentable design have become the reason for their use in such facilities as production workshops, shops and offices. In residential buildings they are not used so widely. are of a specific nature and require certain knowledge to perform repairs.

The difficulty is that the design contains quite a lot of elements. All these components perform specific functions to start and maintain the discharge of the device in the required operating condition. And an increase in the component parts of any design usually reduces the reliability parameters and makes it more vulnerable to failure.

Operating principle and some features of the device

It is impossible to begin preventive measures or troubleshooting without carefully studying all the characteristics and principles of the work process. First, let's define the source of light radiation - this is a lamp, which consists of a U-shaped or cylindrical bulb with air removed from it. The internal part is filled with vapors of inert gas and mercury. The filaments, with pairs of contacts located on them, are located at the edges of the bulb.

A gas-discharge lamp with a parallel-connected noise-suppressing capacitor serves as a starter for starting. The contacts close when voltage is applied. This process occurs due to the appearance of a glow discharge in the space between the electrodes. An important nuance is that at least one of this pair of elements must be bimetallic. The discharge causes the electrodes to heat up and they close. If desired, everything that happens can be seen through the inspection window in the housing.

Current flows in the following order - through series-connected threads, contacts and inductor. The formation of free electrons begins on threads coated with a special composition. What happens is called thermionic emission. The elements that appear contribute to the emergence of free charges inside the device, which are able to support the passage of current. The inductor has an inductive reactance that limits the passage of current in the filaments during heating.

The process of self-inductive emf appearing in the inductor is carried out after the electrodes have cooled and opened. The rapid acceleration of electrons and the occurrence of their movement occurs due to the combination of mains voltage and impulse high voltage. Ionization of inert gas molecules is a consequence of the process of their collision with the resulting electrons. As a result, a very stable discharge is formed, with a current limited by the inductance of the inductor.

The starter is deactivated by bridging it with a lit lamp. Sometimes there is a situation where the fire does not occur. In such cases, the entire process is repeated cyclically until the moment when the startup is completed or any component fails.
Filtering and eliminating interference during operation is the responsibility of the capacitor in the circuit. It is connected in parallel to the network terminals.

Malfunctions of fluorescent lamps and ways to eliminate them

Let's consider several of the most common cases of failure or malfunction of such devices:

1. No ignition after switching on. The reasons in this case may be the following - low mains voltage, broken or insufficient wire contact, starter failure, electrode displacement. First, let's change the lamp, and if the situation repeats, we replace the starter and measure it on the contacts of the holder. If there is no voltage supply, we eliminate it. Next, the reliability of the contacts in the areas of connection to the holder and the ballast resistance of the supply wires is checked.
2. The lamp blinks, and the glow is noticeable only from one end. This is usually the result of a short in the lamp terminals, holder or wires. Swap the ends and try to run it. If there is no positive result, the defect is most likely in the wiring or holder.
3. A dim orange glow is visible at the ends. There is a constant alternation of its appearance and disappearance. There is always one option - air has gotten into the inside. There is only one way out - replacing the lamp.
4. After normal ignition, darkening begins with final extinction. Most often this is a consequence of problems with ballast resistance. The optimal solution is to replace this component.
5. Cyclic uniform ignition occurs followed by extinction. There are usually two reasons - a malfunction of the starter or the lamp itself.
6. Switching on is accompanied by burnout of the spiral and blackening of the ends. We check the ballast resistance and power supply voltage. Under normal voltage parameters, the ballast element will need to be replaced.

Parameters of elements when replacing

To achieve the desired effect, the nominal characteristics of the elements that need to be changed must be taken into account very carefully.

Two parameters for starters:

• Data on the power range of luminaires, when starting which similar lamp parts are used.
• The design of the circuit is also important - for a pair of lamps or one.

Characteristics of ballast chokes:

• The lamp base parameters are T8 or T5.
• The need to ensure the launch of two or one lamps.

You need to select electronic ballasts (electronic ballasts) according to the following characteristics:

• working diagram used for connection:
• operating power.

According to the design, electronic ballasts can be in a standard version, or with remote control.